Kiko Kostadinov picked up where it left off for SS27. Back in January, the founder and eponymous designer dialled back colour in favour of spirited, graphic patterns, broadening the brand’s technical know-how through innovative cuts and construction. This season, Kostadinov remained immersed in exploring how geometric forms could push his collections to their limits. A nod to the monochromatic paintings of Agostino Bonalumi, the clothes felt like a natural acceleration of the principles Kostadinov has been refining over recent seasons.

Where colour had previously taken a back seat, it became the focal point for SS27. Singular shades saturated the collection, with teal blue, seemingly the hue of the season, covering the length of the runway (and the penultimate model’s feet, too). The walls, meanwhile, were illuminated by sculptural Saori lamps designed by Bonalumi’s peer Kazuhide Takahama. The opening look was an espresso brown V-neck tunic, paired with angular sunglasses created in collaboration with Oakley – an updated nod to its Terraforma style – and streamlined slip-ons. Loosely draped silhouettes followed in the form of capes and longline smocks, while bomber jackets layered over fitted tops emphasised a push and pull between clean lines and soft, malleable shapes.

As the collection progressed, subverted shirting appeared alongside slim-cut wool coats and jolts of colour were delivered through structured jackets, tops with inventive fastenings and lightweight knits. Clever shirting and sophisticated tailoring underscored much of the line and were joined by the recurring rhombus motif, which evolved throughout the collection, appearing on belts and reworked into the collars of jackets. Another seamless transition came in the form of high-neck jackets and trousers in pale blue, followed by a chestnut brown version with a subtle gloss. Ultimately, it delivered enough edge to keep us on our toes, with sophisticated cuts that didn’t stray too far from Kostadinov’s DNA.

Bags were crafted from a single piece of leather, while footwear remained streamlined and sleek, spanning lace-ups, boots and, of course, a collaboration with Crocs. The designer has long been a fan of divisive footwear – tabis have been a fixture in the Kiko universe for a little while – so what’s another Marmite shoe making a return?

The final looks, breathable and free-flowing, softened into a more muted palette, ranging from an ecru asymmetrically printed top-and-trouser combination to a boxy jacket with two buttons at the hem. To finish, a billowing umber brown tunic was adorned with a diagonal print. Roll on Kiko AW27 we say.

Scroll through the gallery at the top of the page for the entire SS27 collection