David Lynch’s Twin Peaks has fashion in a chokehold. In the same way that you can count on David Bowie’s “Heroes” to play during the finale of at least one show per season, you can guarantee that at least one designer will pay tribute to the Lynchian universe. In the past, creative directors such as Hedi Slimane, Raf Simons and Alessandro Michele have all visited the town of Twin Peaks, and this season, it was Louis-Gabriel Nouchi’s turn. 

For the Parisian designer’s SS27 show, he delivered arguably the campest reinterpretation of Twin Peaks yet – introducing Robert Mapplethorpe and Tom of Finland-style silhouettes to the uncanny town. “I was fascinated and disturbed by the unsettling elegance of the main character, Dale Cooper,” wrote Nouchi in this season’s show notes. “Like in the TV show, the silhouettes are built around characters: a detective, a waitress, a rebellious teenager, a femme fatale.”

The collection’s defining look featured a cropped trench coat, belted at the waist, styled with a pair of tiny Y-fronts and stomper boots. It’s the type of outfit you might have seen in the pages of Bob Mizer’s Physique Pictorial magazine, which JW Anderson chose to celebrate for Pride 2026. 

Backstage, one of the dressers was spotted flitting between models while wearing a Pillion t-shirt – the biggest queer film of 2025, in which Alexander Skarsgård plays a gay biker and BDSM-enthusiast. Beyond the rogue movie merch, there were clear parallels between the film’s leather-daddy aesthetic and Nouchi’s queer 1950s heartthrobs. 

The designer also took the opportunity to explore womenswear more than ever before. Women marched down the catwalk wearing 80s powersuits and slinky, sheer evening gowns – both types of look equally as hot and glamorous as the other. Twin Peaks might be a town known for its eerie, doom and gloom atmosphere, but for Louis-Gabriel Nouchi, it’s a queer paradise.

Scroll through the gallery above for backstage photos from the show