Matières Fécales brought some much-needed runway diversity to PFW

For a brand literally named after “fecal matter”, it comes as no surprise that Matières Fécales is in the business of celebrating the beauty that exists outside of the glossy, traditional standards defined by society. In fact, speaking to Dazed after their first fashion show in 2018 under their previous incarnation as Fecal Matter, the brand’s creative directors Steven Raj Bhaskaran and Hannah Rose Dalton explained how this practice shapes their artistic vision. “Society treats us as if we are not human, simply because we are different,” the Canadian duo said. “We wanted each model to experience beauty through our perspective.” Now, for Matières Fécales’ second-ever runway show at Paris Fashion Week, the label presented one of the most diverse castings of the SS26 season.

The collection, called Hannah, was described by Bhaskaran in show notes as “a love letter to Hannah Rose, my partner in life” and her “fearless commitment to beauty.” People of all genders, races, body types, and abilities showed up on the catwalk, including top model Colin Jones and presenter and disability advocate Nikky Lilly, who made her runway debut with the brand. Cabaret performer Dragoness Lola von Flame and Russian actress Renata Litvinova were also drafted in to complete the casting.

Together, the looks themselves subverted classic couture silhouettes and standards: pink, off-the-shoulder tweed sets fell apart in frayed edges, black tulle gowns were torn-up and covered in roses, and demure skirt-suits came shaped up with high shoulders and circling waists into alien-like proportions. On the runway, Lilly wore a black tulle ball gown decorated with hand-dyed chiffon roses around the bust, while, in the notes, Dalton and Bhaskaran referred to her as “a star channelling all the fearless nature in extreme beauty that inspires us every day.”

Meanwhile, as with everything Bhaskaran and Dalton get their hands on, the event was packed with radical, must-see beauty moments. This time around, models’ entire heads were powdered completely white, transforming them into otherworldly, alien-like beings, bright red lipstick was painted on thick like clown make-up, and black liner was winged across the eyes à la 2022 Julia Fox.

Scroll through the gallery above to see backstage imagery from the show