The last time we hung out with Prada in Milan, Mrs P and Raf Simons had just sent out a collection that responded to the dire times we find ourselves in – backstage at the house’s AW25 womenswear show, after dropping a series of new takes on the little black dress, Miuccia explained how hard it was to drag her attention away from the constant stream of terrible news to even put pen to paper and come up with clothes for the new season. Three months on, though, and despite the state of the world arguably getting even worse – we probably don’t need to point out the fact it feels like we’re on the precipice of World War Three breaking out any moment – the two designers have chosen optimism, sending what they referred to as a hopeful menswear collection down the runway for SS26. Here’s everything you need to know. 

STRIPPED BACK AND SELF-REFERENTIAL

It’s hotter than the surface of the sun here in Milan, so it was fortunate that Prada opted to strip out the bowels of its HQ showspace this time around. Where the last two seasons have seen the venue decked out with criss-crossing and kind of claustrophobic metal scaffolding platforms that sent those with an aversion to heights into a tailspin, for SS26 the whole thing was completely gutted, with benches arranged around the perimeter of the cavernous room. A poured concrete floor cooled things down, while big, cartoony carpeted flowers offered up some Prada-ism – brand stans soon realised the motif was lifted directly from the SS13 offering, where it was plastered over faux fur car coats and neat little sweaters with chic Princess sleeves. The move was emblematic of Raf and Miuccia’s recent proclivity for dotting Easter eggs throughout their collections, with fashion fanatics feeling the rush from recognising them from the archives. 

THE BOYS WERE BACK IN TOWN

As ever, Prada pulled in some big names to line its front row this season. Back again was brand ambassador and recent campaign boy Harris Dickinson, who handily taught us how to say “shit” in Italian when we caught up with him pre-show. Benito Skinner played it straight in stripes, while Riz Ahmed and Benedict Cumberbatch rubbed shoulders ahead of kick-off. 

A MOMENT OF HOPE

Miuccia and Raf really stripped it back this season, sending a clean, cool, understated collection out onto the catwalk. The gorpcore aesthetic is still giving at Prada, with utilitarian outerwear covered in handy pockets layered over slick shirting and slim trousers – just last week, Demna stated he was sick of the oversized silhouette, and after a few seasons streamlining things themselves, the Prada designers also seemed committed to something a lot more slender. Elsewhere, slouchy boatneck sweaters were paired with basic crew neck tees and matched with swingy cropped slacks, with some finished with lightweight, hip-length trenches and easy car coats.

The collection was about “simplicity and easy elegance” Raf and Miuccia confirmed in the post-show scrum, and marked a bit of a shift in mood for the house – despite being extremely fab, those super-skinny trompe-l’oeil knits and high-waisted, double-belted trousers from recent seasons perhaps felt a little too Fashion-with-a-capital-F for a lot of men, whereas SS26 felt a lot more accessible, full of wardrobe staples that will last a lifetime and beyond. The palette was fresher, too, with dusty lilacs and lavenders clashing up against punchy mustard, pillar box red, zingy orange and Granny Smith green. 

PRADA NYLON SUPREMACY

Loads of the models’ looks were finished with big utilitarian backpacks and book bags, covered in pockets and with loads of space for all your everyday essentials and then some. What soon became apparent was that not a single one of them was crafted from leather. Instead, Prada sent out a full collection of signature nylon pieces, which retail for a lot less than the leather goods it typically offers up. With the economy the way it is, it’s not really surprising – where brands keep jacking up their prices and seeing a drop in sales as a return, seems like Prada is more intent on offering something far more accessible to its customers.

THOSE HATS!

A real standout of the season were the little woven hats that many of the models stepped out in. It’s a style we’ve also seen at Setchu and Emporio Armani across the last few days, and when you hit three instances in fashion, it probably means it’s going to be a trend. Expect to see them cropping up on countless mag covers in the coming months, and stick one on your own head if you dare.

Scroll through the gallery at the top of the page for Prada’s latest men’s collection