For those thinking that last season was Rachel Scott’s debut at Proenza Schouler, alas, you were wrong. While SS26 was made “in collaboration” with the Proenza design team, this is Scott’s first proper collection at the helm, after taking over from founders Jack McCullough and Lazaro Hernandez after they departed for Loewe last year. And with the support of NY’s coolest women on the front row (Indya Moore, Hari Nef, Celine Song, Jemima Kirke, etc.), Scott’s AW26 debut was set to be a memorable one.

On the runway, a sculptural jersey dress opened the show, chic but unfussy, setting the tone for the rest of the collection. The hems of double-breasted jackets protruded in peplum silhouettes, while exploded houndstooth prints adorned an asymmetrical wrap dress and matching top. A standout look came in the form of another peplum jacket, but this time in denim and with matching jeans to complete the Canadian tuxedo.

The colour palette remained muted for the first half of the collection – washed out blues and black and taupe – but then slowly bloomed for the rest of the show, until burgundy dresses were covered in cyan floral prints. At Diotima – Scott’s own brand, which she founded in 2021 – the designer is known for her crochet and fringing expertise, which she transferred to Proenza in shoes decorated with ribbons of leather and column gowns in a thick, woollen stitch.

Scroll through the gallery above for all the backstage images