It’s getting hard to keep up with fashion’s creative director dominos, making headlines on a daily basis. Lucky for us, this week’s Dazed and Discoursed podcast unpacks the industry’s musical chairs (listen here), though since it was recorded, there’s already been three major new movements: Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez are headed to Loewe, Casey Cadwallader is stepping down from Mugler, and Portuguese designer Miguel Castro Freitas will replace him on April 1. 

Although we’re looking forward to Castro Freitas’ new chapter at the French heritage brand, it’s important to take a second to reflect on the impact that Cadwallader had during his time there. Significantly, he continued Mugler’s personal mission to diversify the industry, all while triggering global trends and releasing sold-out collabs. As we wait to hear what he does next, we take a look back on some of Cadwallader’s greatest hits. 

THE MANY CATWALK CAMEOS

Thierry ‘Manfred’ Mugler was known for his spectacular fashion shows. Whether it was robots, insects, motorbikes or giant clams, there was always an abstract, avant-garde element that managed to be as breathtaking as it was entertaining. But more than just theatrical displays and stunning couture, Mugler consistently pushed for diversity on the catwalk. He tackled racism, ageism, and was one of the first designers to include trans models in his shows. Icons such as Connie Fleming and Teri Toye became permanent fixtures and in 2023, Fleming (AKA Connie Girl), returned to the Mugler runway, when Cadwallader asked her to walk in the show. 

During his time at the house, Cadwallader continued Mugler’s legacy by inviting several prominent trans models to walk in his shows. The likes of Arca, Hunter Schafer, Dominique Jackson, Alex Consani and Colin Jones are all significant members of Cadwallader’s Mugler family. In general, his shows have delivered some of the biggest catwalk cameos of the fashion week calendar: Paris Hilton, Angela Bassett, Ziwe, Fan Bingbing, Debra Shaw, Joan Smalls, Amelia Gray, Kristen McMenamy, Bella Hadid, Mariacarla Boscono and Paloma Elsesser have all featured in shows or campaigns. Like Mugler himself, Cadwallader always had a surprise in store – whether it was who was walking, or a giant wind machine, for example. 

MUGLER ON TOUR

During his seven-year tenure at Mugler, the pop girlies have been banging down Cadwallader’s door for custom looks. Since her 2018 On The Run Part II Tour, Beyoncé has been a dedicated Mugler customer. Cadwallader designed outfits for her and Blue Ivy in the ‘My Power’ music video, as well as the visual teaser for Renaissance, plus several looks for the Renaissance World Tour. The most recognisable, of course, was Queen Bey’s metallic bumblebee ensemble. “Beyoncé asked for a bee, Mugler made her one,” Cadwallader wrote on Instagram in 2023. 

He designed a custom look for Bad Bunny to headline Coachella, dressed Doja Cat for her ‘Streets’ music video, featured on Lisa’s album cover and dressed Dua Lipa, Cardi B and Rosalía at various Grammys. Megan Thee Stallion is a certified fan of the brand, wearing Mugler to perform during the 2022 Billboard Awards and again for the “WAP” video alongside Cardi B. 

FASHION ON FILM 

Cadwallader’s slick and seductive campaign films have been some of the hottest of the 2020s. The most viral, however, had to be the SS22 campaign film featuring an all-star cast of Mugler girls – from OG supermodels Shalom Harlow and Amber Valletta to Megan Thee Stallion, Lourdes Leon and Chloë Sevigny too. In the film, the models strut and vogue their way around a New York City film set, before Valletta and Harlow make out on the hood of a car. They’re joined by not one, but two Bella Hadids, as the model gets her own doppelganger – because one Bella is simply not enough. 

HELLO HUNTER SCHAFER 

As previously mentioned, there’s been a number of famous faces who’ve become part of Cadwallader’s Mugler world. Though perhaps none have been as synonymous with the brand as Hunter Schafer. Following in the footsteps of Jerry Hall, Naomi Watts, Eva Mendes and Georgia May Jagger, Schafer is the current face of the iconic Angel Mugler perfume. Fronting two major fragrance campaigns for both Angel Fantasm and Angel Elixir (plus walking in the SS21 show), Schafer truly embodies the angelic, ethereal spirit of the house. 

THE COLLABS

Over the past two decades, H&M has collaborated with some of the biggest luxury fashion houses in the world. There’s been Commes des Garçons, Balmain, Kenzo, Margiela, Moschino, Karl Lagerfeld and Versace, to name a few. In 2023, it was the turn of Mugler. Unsurprisingly, shoppers queued overnight and around the block to be the first to get their hands on the collab. They were divided up and given 15-minute time slots to make their selections (forget trying anything on). Elsewhere, Cadwallader Mugler collabs have included eyewear giant Gentle Monster and luxury tights and lingerie brand Wolford.