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Phillip Lim 3.1 Womenswear A/W10

Lim's sophomore menswear collection brings the wild into the city.

PhotographyMark Reay

You always get the feeling Phillip Lim has a riot of a time playing with his clothes and whilst in womenswear he's established an aptitude for covetable details and motifs, in menswear he's only just started to stretch his imagination. For his second foray into menswear, which is once again complete with developed footwear and accessories, Lim wanted to bring the wild into the city. Everyday is an adventure and the city urban uniforms required for these expeditions include outerwear with names like 'captains' and 'quest', harnesses, zebra and gingham prints and a lot of the protective and textural elements that have been peppering A/W 10-11 shows. Lim may be playing but these clothes are fit for some serious outdoor adventures that can trek the terrain of skyscrapers and underground.

Dazed Digital: You wanted clothes you wanted to wear - you really pushed it forward this seasn - are they still clothes you'd want to wear?
Phillip Lim: *Demonstrates to his shoes* These are called the beasts and it's really the beast that lurks within! I would wear every one of those pieces. The thing with human nature is that when you want something, you satisfy for that moment and then you want more.

DD: Was it that you were holding back last season and then just biding your time?
Phillip Lim: It's human process. Last season I was feeling more melancholic. This season, it's like 'Enough, let's bring the wild into the city!'
The thing with menswear is that it should be fun. This season in particular, we've really tried to marry form and function. We were looking at athletic and expedition clothes and how to make them into fashion clothes. Then we're taking fashion clothes and giving them to kids and seeing how they adapt it into the way they dress. At the end of the day, they needed to be

DD: You mentioned words like 'beast' and 'wild' - tell us more about that animal influence?
Phillip Lim: There were shoes that were hybrid animals. We showed undersides of furs. People think they have to outside for adventure but everyday is an adventure in the city. Even this space!

DD: I was just about to ask about that - how did you come up with the set?
Phillip Lim: The space is designed by my longtime collaborator Andrew Ondrejcak. It's an abandoned ballroom and it's owned by Penn Station Hotel and we got this space and it was decayed. They let us pour concrete in here last night!

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