Daniel Lee looked to the English country garden as he dropped his third collection for the big British house
The arrival of Burberry’s SS24 show was hard to miss. Across the course of the last week, the behemoth British brand has rolled out a mega campaign, taking over beloved North London caff Norman’s and driving a bunch of food trucks across the capital, blasted its new campaign and Knight logo across Piccadilly Circus’s monster screens, and turned Bond Street Station into ‘Burberry Street Station’, which is particularly incredible when you consider just how many tourists likely completely lost their minds when they landed on the Tube stop’s platforms and wondered WTF was going on. Today was the day it all came to a head, however, as Daniel Lee turned out his third collection for the house and put on his second blockbuster show. As always, we’ve broken down everything you need to know – here’s what went down at Burberry SS24.
THE GUESTLIST WAS GUESTLISTING
Daniel Lee has long been able to draw in an impressive crowd and today was no different. On the line-up – and sitting on cute little bottle green park benches lined with quilted Burberry blankets and stainless steel thermos flasks – were the likes of Skepta, Wizkid, Burna Boy, and Topboy’s very own Kano and Michael Ward. Also showing up was Kylie Minogue, England player Bukayo Saka, Jason Statham, and the woman every girl and gay would love to step on their neck, Rachel Weisz, who slipped into a chic pair of green patterned pyjama separates designed by Lee himself.
ANOTHER TENT WAS ERECTED
With Lee’s first show taking place in an unassuming Kennington Park back in January, this time around he was back outside and right in the middle of North London’s Highbury Fields. As kids just out of school gathered around the entrance trying to get a look of their faves filling in, attendees mooched about outside the big Burberry-checked tent the show took place in as one of those aforementioned Norman’s food trucks dished out tea, coffee, and snacks ahead of curtains up.
THE LINE-UP WAS A MIX OF OG AND NEXT-GEN FACES
@dazed @KAI-ISAIAH JAMAL for @Burberry #SS24 😮💨 #DazedFashionTV #TikTokFashion #runway #Burberry #KaiIsaiahJamal #LFW #fashionweek ♬ original sound - dazed
…like longtime Burberry girlies Karen Elson and Liberty Ross, who both took a turn around the catwalk. And then came the newbies, including Alva Claire, Kai-Isaiah Jamal, Mona Tougaard, and Adwoa Aboah, who made up the show’s new guard of it-models.
SPEAKING OF ALVA…
@dazed Oh hi Alva 💘 #DazedFashionTV #TiktokFashion @Burberry #SS24 #runway #AlvaClaire #LFW #fashionweek ♬ original sound - dazed
Was the Dazed 100er the first ‘curve’ girl to walk a Burberry show? We’ve reached out to the brand for clarity on that one: stay tuned for more.
DANIEL LEE WAS FEELING FRUITY THIS SEASON
@dazed A serve 💓 #AdwoaAboah for @Burberry SS24 #DazedFashionTV #TikTokFashion #Burberry #runway #LFW #fashionweek ♬ original sound - dazed
Lee really seemed to hit his stride this season, turning out a super strong collection that felt incredibly ‘him’. The classic trench played an unsurprisingly heavy role across the SS24 offering, with the designer turning it inside-out, back-to-front, and upside-down, letting it slide off shoulders and slinging delicate chain detailing around it to allow it to be transformed into evening appropriate capes and accoutrements.
Layered column dresses came strung with long fringing which bounced and wobbled as the models walked, while halter-neck tops and asymmetric trapeze gowns concertinaed out thanks to tight pleated construction. The streetwear-inspired silhouettes that dominated the last half-decade at the house were largely gone, with the whole thing a lot more polished and put-together than we’ve become accustomed to – there was even a touch of the Burberry Prorsum to the offering, like Lee had been let loose in the archives and headed straight for the early 00s section.
The designer’s knack for accessories came through in glittering gold slippers and a series of slouchy, oversized bags, while playful flourishes included a big blousy floral print and tops and tailoring dotted with cute little black and blue strawberries. Lee had been thinking about the most stereotypical vision of the twee AF English country garden according to his show notes, but somehow managed to make it feel fresh and contemporary within the clothes themselves.
PETA GOT INVOLVED
Fresh from storming the catwalk at Coach’s SS24 show in NY last week, PETA sent a representative down to the Burberry tent to infiltrate the runway, too. Brandishing a sign reading ‘Burberry: Animals Are Not Clothing’, the protester made it pretty far around the show circuit before being gently but firmly escorted from the scene. Seems like the organisation really has its sights set on fashion week this season: stay tuned for more stunts in Milan and Paris.