From the Black Fashion Fair and London’s Fantastic Toiles, to Georgian flea markets, members of Dazed’s creative community spotlight the best places to shop for ethical and independent fashions
Lest we remove ourselves from society altogether – hemp bags slung over the shoulder, bare feet treading the tarmac – so much of living responsibly is predicated on the inevitable compromises we’re forced to make with consumerism. We know most retailers are unethical, but it’s pretty unrealistic to assume that people won’t, at some point in their life, buy an extension cable on Amazon Prime. These conversations often come to the surface on Black Friday, when shops slash prices and people get in fights outside retail parks while jostling for flat screen TVs and washing machines. But perhaps that kind of thing is okay? We are living in a cost of living couscous, after all.
What’s not okay, however, is when fast fashion brands like Pretty Little Thing introduce a 100 per cent sale, peddling free bikinis because workers have been exploited at every stage of the supply chain. It’s why many indie brands have taken the decision to cease trading for 24 hours, protesting against fashion’s role in the climate emergency while encouraging people to buy better, not more. If anything, Black Friday should be an opportunity to challenge our spending habits – to redirect the attention from bloodied, bargain basement discounts and spotlight the independent retailers who are actively enriching the landscape of fashion. Below, we ask some of our favourite stylists, photographers, writers, and designers where they like to shop.
ELLA SNYDER, MODEL
“Every Saturday and Sunday in Los Angeles, vendors upon vendors set up shop for the Silver Lake flea market. The best way I could describe it is as an IRL Depop – everything has been curated, it’s heavily Y2K, and I always end up finding something. Otherwise, I love Aralda Vintage. I go there to play dress-up – this store is an experience. Specialising in vintage couture, this is where Euphoria pulled all those gowns for when Alexa Demie was going through the closet of that rich family she was babysitting. You’ll find archival Galliano in perfect condition sitting right next to an SS11 Alexander McQueen dress FROM THE RUNWAY all on the same rack. It’s a fashion lover’s heaven, although at a 1k spend minimum. It’s a fantasy, it’s a fun day activity. It’s dress-up.”
CLIP, MUSICIAN
“My favourite place to shop would have to be Rogue in NYC. It’s a very cute store created by Emma Rogue – one of the best people ever – and she takes time to curate all the cute pieces you find while shopping. It’s such a refreshing store with all the Y2K items you could ever dream of.”
TRASHY CLOTHING, DESIGNERS
“One of our favourite concept stores is Lunch, their seasonless approach is focused on promoting slow and sustainable fashion from across the world, which is needed within the industry. Lunch also creates editorial content that helps customers to dive into the brands’ stories. They’re one of the first stores we stocked in because of their approach!”
JAMIE-MAREE SHIPTON, STYLIST
“Aro Archive in London always has such a nice curation of archive pieces. I’ve found Loewe printed t-shirts, a suede Margiela x H&M jacket that came with a hanging hook so that it could be displayed as an art piece, as well as a Miu Miu belt bag. And the best part is that it’s so well priced. Then there’s Haut Coperation, which is also in London. The selection here, alongside how it’s all been displayed is suchhh a treat – not to mention that they also do loans for stylists. Some of the best pieces (early Christopher Kane) aren’t for sale but seeing them up close is so special (and fun!)
I also love dot COMME in Melbourne, which still exists from my time back home. It was one of my earlier introductions to the concept of archival fashion and their selection is beyond comparison. Think crazy Comme des Garçons and wearable art pieces… I can’t wait to get back there next time I’m in Australia. Otherwise, Caprices in Paris is a little secret that another stylist told me about. I don’t know if I should be sharing this BUT the survival of stores like this is so essential. It only stocks lingerie, socks, and tights. It’s wall-to-wall. It’s got old runs of tights from brands from the 1920s and 1990s alongside their own stock – but you can literally find anything here, from lace, to lycra and prints. Everything that will instantly update your wardrobe.”
PRINCESS JULIA, MODEL AND DJ
“Fantastic Toiles in London is unique, one of a kind. Nasir Mazhar has curated a vision of artists, designers, and crafters offering pieces that you know nobody else is going to wear the same. There, established and up-and-coming come together and sell pieces for special occasions – that’s every day for you and me!
I love a hat as you know, which is why my long standing affair with Stephen Jones’ work and my visits to his bespoke millinery on Great Queen Street is always a moment of great joy! Then there’s Donlon Books, nestled in the heart of Broadway Market – book worms celebrate the art, the diversity, and the wonderment of discovery. I love it there… if not just to get some IRL gossip from Conor Donlon himself!
Otherwise, there’s 25 London Road – did you know I’m actually involved in a shared emporium? It’s a space in the seaside town of St Leonard’s where William Baker and I have set up shop, literally! We’ve got installations, currently featuring Mr Steven Philip’s archive, and also a curated selection of items including caps and t-shirts. It’s also home to William’s own brand, God Skateboarding.
One of my favourite places to shop, though, is Bleaq, which is in the depths of Brick Lane’s vintage market. It’s a cornucopia of delights, where designers Gloria Jane Royer and Shannon Maria Samuel select their fave looks to sell IRL.”
GIA KUAN, PR
“Hmmm... it's a hard choice! Honestly, I'm an online shopper and I thrift a lot on eBay and Etsy, but for IRL gems, I do love random strip malls and markets while travelling for handcrafted items. And for a bad knock-off, or fabulous costume jewellery, I go to Santee Alley in downtown LA. I do have a soft spot for Dover Street Market New York, too, I get most of my jewellery from there.”
MICHAELA STARK, DESIGNER
“VV Rouleaux!!! It’s not technically a clothes shop, per se, but it’s the cutest little ribbon shop in central London. If I have money to spend that’s where you’ll find me. They have ribbons of every colour, weave, fabric, and size. As you can imagine, it’s like heaven for me. I can walk in there and buy 40m of ribbons on the spot. And it’s not just ribbons! It’s also got amazing trimmings and all kinds of millinery supplies. As I make so many of my own clothes, I really let my imagination go free in that little store!”
IRAKLI RUSADZE, DESIGNER
“Dry Bridge is a permanent flea market in Tbilisi city centre, where antiquaries come together to sell their collections. I always love to go and have a look. You can find unique accessories, garments, and jewellery. A lot of my inspirations find their starting point there. But when I go to Istanbul for work, I always stop by By Retro. They have a large selection of vintage and second hand clothes from the 80s and 90s. I love the atmosphere there.
And how could I not mention Dover Street Market in London! I remember selling my collections there for the first time. The effort that’s put into the set designs of each and every corner is always amazing. I also love Park in Vienna – I’ve only had the chance to visit the store a couple of times in my life but I hold great memories of it. Especially the floral compositions in the shop made from the flowers in their own garden!”
ALECTRA ROTHSCHILD, DESIGNER
“Décor Vintage on Rømersgade 9 in Copenhagen. It’s a vintage shop which has been in the city for decades. It’s not really that well known but they have a variety of price ranges and garments. The lady in there has an original beaded Charleston dress selling next to an old bomber jacket. She has so many beautiful accessories like hats, scarves, gloves, and handbags. Its super fab!
Other than that, I love Det Grønne Loppemarked, which translates to The Green Flea Market. It’s run by a few friends of mine and there are a lot of people with great wardrobes that sell there. They stage loads of talks during the flea market, with a food court featuring a small, local restaurant. Usually I go with a group of friends to have a drink, blast music, and kickle kacle while talking to everyone that passes by. It’s very cosy!”
AH-NIYA GOLD, PR
“Black Fashion Fair is definitely one of my favourite curated marketplaces to shop. I’m always looking for the newest designer finds and can always count on BFF for elite finds. It keeps an ear to the streets and is fully immersed in the culture. It's important we continue to seek and give Black designers and creatives a platform that gives them visibility, but also directly supports their business.”
LUCA WOWCZYNA, STYLIST
“My favourite shopping experience has to be the madly beautiful set-ups of Nasir Mazhar’s Fantastic Toiles, which has semi-regular pop-ups hosting one-off eccentricities from the most creative designers in London. From the chaotic appearance of the stores to amazing pieces by independent talents – such as Nazifa Begum, Freyja Newsome's Mvudslyde, Nova and Paolo Carzana – everything here is imperfectly perfect and pushes a new anti-greed shopping experience, while contributing massively to London’s underground scene and subcultures.
Another favourite has to be Berlin’s Ironic Gallery, which can be found on the Flughafenstraße backstreet. It holds an amazing selection of second-hand clothing from designers of the past: think Miu Miu and Galliano, in the same space as brands like Share Spirit and 14th Addiction. Ironic Gallery is the home to a perfect balance of Japanese and European design, not to mention the very sweet store space and lovely owner. It’s a pleasure to shop or browse here. It’s really important to push away from the capitalist approach pushed by big businesses in times like these, supporting those who contribute to the communities around us instead.”
NELSON CJ, WRITER
“Nothing beats the excitement of randomly scrolling through Instagram and stumbling on a perfect two piece shirt and shorts set, made from soft cotton and selling at a pocket-friendly price! If you live in Lagos and cannot shoulder the trouble of visiting Balogun Market – one of the city’s most bustling shopping areas where you can find just about anything – shopping with Nigerian fashion vendors on Instagram is the best way to go.
Stores like @shopfrugal.co and @wearsandcross offer affordable, sometimes custom, other times ready-made but well-sourced fashion items, from clothing to accessories. For many young Nigerians, like myself, Instagram vendors save lives. When it comes to elevated fashion statements, Vangei – a Nigerian, queer-owned fashion brand – is my go to. Their androgynous outfits have a bold, degendered approach to silhouettes, shapes, cuts and colours. And for thrifting, a trip to Yaba Market, another bustling market area in Lagos, is my best bet for finding timeless, but inexpensive, items.”
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