Ralph Lauren expands on its American dream, while Ukrainian label IENKI IENKI drops its AW22 collection
Daniel Roseberry has brought Schiaparelli back into focus over the past couple of seasons, forging overblown and outré collections indebted to its founder’s surrealist whims. And from July 6, Elsa Schiaparelli will be the subject of a new exhibition at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris dubbed Shocking Chic: Les mondes surréalistes d'Elsa Schiaparelli – a riff on the Italian designer’s shocking pink signature. A contemporary of Jean Cocteau, Man Ray, Jean-Michel Frank, Salvador Dalí, and Marlene Dietrich, Schiaparelli was a provocateur, enlivening couture with quirk and iconoclasm. Though her legacy has been somewhat overshadowed by Gabrielle Chanel, Schiaparelli was the first to collaborate with artists, to create trompe l’oeil garments, and to use newspaper prints – long before John Galliano did the same at Dior. The show will run until January 22 next year, tickets for which can be purchased here.
In fashion news this week, Maximilian Davis landed a major gig as the new creative director of Salvatore Ferragamo, while Sarah Burton went foraging in huge piles of muck for Alexander McQueen. Otherwise, Kim Cattral and Josh Hartnett were hawked as fashion’s hottest new couple, Aya Nakamura collaborated with Balenciaga, and Anna Wintour unveiled the Met Gala’s 2022 theme. As the Fashioning Masculinities exhibition opened at the Victoria and Albert Museum, straight women made like lesbians and finally found the confidence to wear trousers – apparently. For everything else that may have passed you by, click through the gallery below.
THE QUEUE’S TOO LONG, JUST USE MY BAG
A fist juts from beneath a miniskirt in Medea’s new campaign, clasping a bucket bag as if it were being wrenched from inside a well. The brand’s AW22 collection is housed in a special, 40-page edition of TOILETPAPER magazine, set across Dalí-esque desertscapes, starring a bag-sniffing Emu, trapped in an ice block, and dangling from the crook of a broken arm. Limited numbers of MEDEALAND will be available for purchase from select retailers and medea.world when the collection drops later this year.
LN-CC IS RECYCLING AGAIN
Dalston’s cult concept store, LN-CC, is launching NINE capsule collections to coincide with Global Recycling Day, among them reworked Patagonia fleeces by (di)vision and repurposed tea towels by Rave Review. Harry Freegard art directed the accompanying photo shoot, showcasing conscious capsules that reimagine waste, courtesy of Ales Grey, Another Aspect, DRx FARMAxY, Greater Goods, Niko June, Rombaut, and Ugo Paulon. Head over to the site to see more.
LĒO LINKS UP WITH DICKIES
Belgium-based streetwear label LĒO is collaborating with workwear stalwarts Dickies – proffering sliced-leg chinos, 00s-style bubble tops, oversized, boxy jackets, and shrunken dungaree minidresses. Check out the collaboration here.
A JUICY NEW COUTURE CAMPAIGN
Everyone’s fave purveyor of candy-coloured velour just dropped its dreamy SS22 campaign this week. With the collection taking its cues from 1981 anime movie The Sea Prince & The Fire Child (a must-watch if you’re not familiar), Jenny Brough’s photographs bring together bejewelled crop tops and matching headbands, palm-printed tops and trousers, and uber-soft undies against a swirling deep sea backdrop.
IENKI IENKI STRIVES ON
Many Ukrainian designers are continuing to work despite living through war. Dima Levenko is one such example, having kept IENKI IENKI in operation in order to provide for both his team and the Ukrainian economy. The brand released its AW22 collection this week, styled by Dazed’s fashion director Imruh Asha. Drawing inspiration from a mythological forest, staple pieces were updated with animal ears and new shaggy fabrications. See more of the collection here.
RALPH LAUREN EXPANDS ITS AMERICAN DREAM
Ralph Lauren is building on its relationship with Black institutions, Morehouse College and Spelman College, unveiling a limited-edition collection inspired by the schools’ heritage and traditions. “It’s so much more than a portrayal of a collegiate design sensibility. It’s about sharing a more complete and authentic portrait of American style and of the American dream,” said Lauren. The collection will be available on March 29 online, the Polo App, the Ralph Lauren App, Morehouse College and Spelman College Follett campus bookstores and in select Ralph Lauren stores while stock lasts.
SKIMS DEEP
When Kim Kardashian told the public to “get your fucking ass up and work” she really meant it. This week, the brand mogul expanded her SKIMS offering with a swimwear line, which aims to make buying and wearing swimwear easier with a 19-piece collection designed to mix and match. “It should be fun and easy,” Kim said in a press release, “yet so many women feel daunted by it. I wanted to change that and make the process as simple as possible by providing a full Swim wardrobe – both for in and out of the water. There is truly something here for everyone – whether you prefer a more covered up style or like something more revealing, the collection is designed to be layered and built upon.” SKIMS Swim launches at 4pm GMT today on SKIMS.com.