Ellie Goldstein is iconised by adidas, while BUTT makes a comeback
Ritualistic dressing has been a driving force of Saul Nash’s work ever since he graduated from the Royal College of Art in 2018. With pull cords, twisted zips, and modular components, the act of wearing or engaging with his clothing requires process and practice. The designer approaches fashion as more than mere ephemera, exploring how certain items are habiltually worn, how design interacts with daily life. His shows, so often made up of throngs of languid dancers, are cult-like in how they come together – and his AW22 offering was no different.
Nash debuted his collection, dubbed Ritual, with a catwalk show and accompanying short film, set in the watering hole of a Black barbershop in Kensal Rise. Chosen for its community-binding atmosphere, Nash delves into the folklore and spirituality of his Guyanese upbringing, producing Yemaya mermaid prints on techy zip-ups, jacquard tops, and track pants, while making his first foray into tailoring, cut from combat wool, with detachable sleeves, hoods, and press-stud fastenings. Elsewhere, Nash’s signature sportswear courses over the body with careening seams and panel pieces, much of which can be removed and repositioned as per the wearer’s own personal rituals.
In other news this week, New York Fashion Week christened the AW22 womenswear season, with cameos from Julia Fox at LaQuan Smith and just about everyone else at Collina Strada, while No Agency decided to quit the schedule altogether (kind of). Elsewhere, Tremaine Emory was made creative director of Supreme and, across the pond, Molly-Mae unofficially kicked off London Fashion Week as protestors gathered outside her not so pretty little fashion show. For everything else that may have passed you by, click through the gallery below.
ELLIE GOLDSTEIN WAS ICONISED BY ADIDAS
Dazed 100er, Gucci model, and activist Ellie Goldstein has officially been iconised with a lifesize statue outside City Hall. The sculpture is part of an adidas initiative which aims to platform the work of boundary-breaking women, given that there are currently more statues dedicated to animals in the British capital than there are women. The campaign, which centres on the launch of a new sports bra, involves eight other changemakers and saw the brand Tweet a photo of 25 people’s bare breasts, causing (gasp) division and discourse to emerge on the timeline.
HUGO COMTE LAUNCHED A FASHION LABEL
Following the success of his coffee table tome, photographer Hugo Comte is leaning into his cult cache with the launch of a clothing capsule. The womenswear collection is in collaboration with emerging knitwear designer Lois Saunders and is dubbed Dear Nikita, by Lois Saunders & Hugo Comte. In conjunction to this, Comte is launching his own proprietary social token, $NIKITA, which will grant customers special access to exclusive offerings, including metaverse wearables. Head here to see more of the collection.
AN ALBER ELBAZ EXHIBITION IS COMING TO PARIS
The Palais Galliera will be celebrating Alber Elbaz with an immersive, commemorative exhibition, Love Brings Love. Running from March 5 to July 10, the museum will recreate the fashion show which took place in honour of the designer in October last year, complete with all 46 tribute designs. Click here to book tickets.
BURBERRY GOT ANIMALISTIC
Burberry also revealed an immersive experience this week, this time at its flagship store on Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills. With the exterior of the building blasted in bubblegum cow print, the space lifts the veil on Riccardo Tisci’s SS22 collection – from sculptural topography, to stacks of mirrored speakers, to a dedicated viewing room where customers can watch the original presentation play on a behemoth screen with atmospheric surround sound. The installation will run until March 7.
BUTT-EGA VENETA
The only good gay magazine is making a comeback. Next month, BUTT will be relaunching with its 30th issue with the support of Bottega Veneta, who will take over its pages as sole advertiser. The quarterly, which was founded in 2001 and edited by Gert Jonkers and Jop van Bennekom, has been on hiatus for the best part of a decade. “It has a meaning for many who work for Bottega Veneta, who grew up with the magazine and loved its cheeky view of the world,” a representative told WWD. “For many of us, no matter where we grew up on the globe, it made us feel at home. We hope it can do the same for a new generation.”
CONVERSE IS BOLSTERING BLACK PHOTOGRAPHERS
Converse is sponsoring a community engagement program with the Black Image Centre, which helps to provide access to photography services to young Black artists. Having first partnered with the project last year, Converse and Black Image Centre’s will continue to equip emerging creatives with the tools needed to take their career to the next level. Read more about that here.