Bianca Saunders lands a huge award and Hood By Air teases its runway return
Beyond all the archive Vivienne Westwood revivals, The Cure t-shirts, and the sugary punk of Olivia Rodrigo, designers, as well as celebrities, have been engaging with a slightly grungier aesthetic this season. There were face-pierced desert ravers at Burberry, nu-ravers in cloaking, acid wash denim at Louis Vuitton, and now Givenchy has presented a feral, graffitied collection set in the abandoned railways of Paris. Today (July 2) Matthew Williams sent out a slew of teenage runaways, strapped with bulging rucksacks and body jewellery. If garments weren’t ripped or frayed, they had been defaced with spray paint, as per the handiwork of Chito.
Seams on neon technical jackets had been replaced by graffitied slashes, while gauzy, multi-layered mini dresses had been tagged with cartoonish faces. But this kind of pubescent angst was, in no way, naive. A trashed Rimowa made way for a flurry of square-shouldered, knife-like tailoring. Leather playsuits, vandalised denim, and cobweb knitted overlays were swapped out for asymmetrical, embellished column dresses, stiff mesh skirts, and half-half blazers, all swaddled beneath oversized puffer jackets. Meanwhile, heavy jewellery took on the character of Williams’ trademark hardware, with hefty curb link necklaces, chain vests, and hulking rings.
In other grungey fashion news, Supreme announced a Butthole Surfers collaboration, much to the confusion of actual teenagers. Also making their runway return this week was Marc Jacobs and Jacqeumus, while Vetements announced the launch of a new brand. While Balenciaga’s social media channels went dark, Instagram mogul Kim Kardashian was revealed as an official outfitter to team USA for the Olympics. Check out more fashion news you may have missed in the gallery below:
PALACE AND VANS HAVE GONE QUACKERS
Skateboard behemoths, Vans and Palace, are collaborating for the first time. It’s allegedly the brainchild of Palace’s new employee – a squawking duck named Jeremy – who has emblazoned himself in repeat patterns across Vans’ signature slip ons and down the arms of t-shirts. Just how the madcap project came to be is documented in a video by London comedy duo Jonah and Stan. The collection goes live today on Vans’ and Palace’s sites.
WHAT DOES A MATTY BOVAN DRESS SOUND LIKE?
Recent Woolmark Prize winner Matty Bovan has got together with musician Derek Piotr, to create a one-off dress forged from deadstock Liberty prints and “a folk-woven pop mutation audio knit” playlist, which amalgamates the duo’s mishmash, strangely shaped body of work. On describing why Bovan’s fashion chimes with his own ethos, Piotr says “Matty’s work can be worn by anyone, but the moment they wear it they become a higher form of themselves, their own inner phoenix rising from society’s dull ash”. Listen to their playlist on Soundcloud.
A24 MERCH IS HOT RIGHT NOW
Perhaps anticipating the release of its Zola thotyssey, merch from A24, the film production company turned consumer brand, has been hotwired this week. Its infamous cult caps, spotted on a host of celebs and Mubi account holders, have completely sold out. However, the film world’s answer to Supreme has released a load more apparel, though, as well as tonal dog collars, leads, and ashtrays. Check it out here.
THE TELFAR AND CONVERSE COLLAB HAS NOW DROPPED
Another week, another Telfar collaboration, it would seem. This time, the purveyors of the Bushwick Birkin have announced a further drop with Converse. Although a couple of pieces of the “pre-collaboration collection” were released earlier this year – including Chuck Taylors and retro-looking basketball gear – the capsule officially drops today (July 2) with a duffle bag, while sneakers, slides, and apparel are set to go live on July 7. Get your hands on them here.
THEBE MAGUGU SWAPPED MODELS FOR WAXWORKS
Thebe Magugu made his debut as Pitti Uomo’s guest designer this week, following in the footsteps of Telfar and Y/Project. With a walkthrough Spaghetti Western-style installation, the South African showcased his SS22 collection on waxwork models, dressing the humanoid figures in cowboy hats, strappy tailoring, and riding boots like a dark, fashion Madame Tussauds.
EXIT THROUGH THE RCA GIFT SHOP
The MA fashion and design students at the Royal College of Art unveiled their wildly creative collections this week, including inflatable Hello Kitties and entirely digital collections. Many of these students have had their work emblazoned on a t-shirt, too, which is now being sold at the newly opened RCA t-shirt shop – making the Royal College the latest cultural institution to release merch.
ALL RISE FOR BIANCA SAUNDERS
Last night (July 1) Bianca Saunders was announced as the winner of the prestigious ANDAM award, taking home a $300k prize fund and a year's coaching from the CEO of Balenciaga, Cédric Charbit. The designer, who “presented a solid and unique project anchored in the now and today’s values,” said she would “wait until the mentoring kicked in” on deciding how to make the most of the cash, though. Responsible! Saunders’ next SS22 collection will debut at London Fashion Week during September’s womenswear shows.
GUCCI TURNS ITS ARCHIVE INTO A MUSEUM
Gucci has restored an ancient Florentine building to house it’s sprawling archive. Acquired by the label in 1953 the location, Palazzo Settimanni, has served as a factory, a workshop, a showroom, and training centre for Gucci staff. And now, it will be open to the public to marvel at the brand’s legacy creations. “I have restored to the Palazzo a fairy-tale aura which, for instance, allows the small entrance hall to become a gateway to a dream dimension. I envisaged it as a sort of secret place within the House, an inner sanctum from where one sets out for Gucci's holy lands,” said Alessandro Michele, naturally.
BOTTEGA VENETA IS HEADING TO DETROIT
From one club haven to another, Bottega Veneta has announced it’s taking its salon show from the belly of Berghain, to Detroit, the home of house. Salon 03 will be held with a live audience on October 21 later this year – health and safety permitting, of course.
JUICY COUTURE IS LAUNCHING A BIRTHDAY COLLECTION
The OG velour Juicy Couture tracksuit turns 25 this year and the brand is celebrating with a new capsule collection lensed by East London’s Roxy Lee. The “White Label” range consists of four new trackies emblazoned with “In Juicy We Trust”' along the derriere. The birthday collection launches today on the Juicy website.
MARTINE ROSE RELEASES A LOOKBOOK
Having showcased her SS21 collection earlier this year via an immersive, voyeuristic insight into the homes of others – including Drake, Elsa Majimbo, and Mark Bryan – Martine Rose is back with a new lookbook, presenting her clothes in fine, although static detail. It’s a jumbled, twisted, collection, full of leather chaps, distended tailoring, flipped and reversed denim, and square-shouldered velveteen suits. Head over to Martine’s Instagram for more.
HOOD BY AIR TEASES ITS RUNWAY RETURN...
… Sort of. Hood By Air has released a preview of its upcoming film THE PROLOGUE, which will act as the brand’s runway show. Directed by Roger Guardia and the HBA collective Anonymous Club, the complete short film is set to arrive on July 15. “The Prologue interprets the knowledge of the past while introducing the new characters of the future. Featuring exclusive Hood By Air attire, THE PROLOGUE is a visualizer that delivers a new perspective on characterization,” the label said in a statement.