Pin It
Backstage at the AW20 Fashion East London Fashion Week
Gareth WrightonPhotography Simone Steenberg

Gareth Wrighton debuted a dress made of used make-up wipes at LFW

The subversive designer presented his last collection as part of the Fashion East family, as Goom Heo and Nensi Dojaka join the fold for AW20

London Fashion Week is currently in full swing, with the likes of Charlotte Knowles, Ashley Williams, and rising designer DiPetsa having revealed their AW20 collections on day one. This morning, meanwhile, it was over to Fashion East, where Gareth Wrighton, Saul Nash, and Ancuta Sarca were joined by newcomers Nensi Dojaka and Goom Heom

Focusing on the idea of romance, Heo offered up a typically subversive collection of clinging cropped-tops, draped chiffon trousers, and her signature square-toed boots, while Dojaka, who graduated from Central Saint Martins in 2019, juxtaposed layered, feminine slips and sheer bras with oversized blazers. 

Following close behind was Saul Nash, who once again incorporated his work as a movement director into his segment. The show opened with a bevvy of male dancers, dressed in Nash's latest collection, who pushed and pulled each other, twisting and turning their way down the ruwnay to show the movement of the sportswear-inspired offering. 

Rounding things off was Gareth Wrighton, who presented his final collection as part of the Fashion East family (has it really been three seasons?). Imagining a dystopian future, in which ‘we’re all going a bit loopy’, the off-kilter designer opened with a look made from 344 used make-up wipes, before a unique cast made their way down the runway in slogan sweaters (Vote Bush! declared one), knitted looks splattered with mustard and ketchup, and baby-doll dresses, as finished with Jennifer Laurence-emblazoned skateboards and a crown made of Cheetos.

Finally, there was shoe designer Ancuta Sarca, who continued with her playful mash-up of kitten heels and repurposed sneakers this season, debuting a particularly brilliant pair of bright red knee-high boots finished with a silver Nike Swoosh. 

With its 20th anniversary soon approaching, this was the first time Fashion East served a co-ed lineup, with Lulu Kennedy, Fashion East’s founder explaining: “We’ve never been concerned with standard gender rules on the catwalk, so it is natural for us and the progressive designers we support to make this format switch up at the start of our 20th year.”

Take a look at the gallery above.