As the designer presents his first offering since the closure of Meadham Kirchhoff, he discusses the range and whether it’s the beginning of a new label
Titled Blue Roses and described by Meadham as a selection of “bits and bobs”, the range is, he asserts, a completely different entity to that of Meadham Kirchhoff. Because, unlike his collections for the label which represented some of the most fantastical, romantic and boundlessly creative fashion in recent memory, and rivalled the craftsmanship of the ateliers of historic haute couture houses in their execution, Blue Roses is simple. Consisting of t-shirts and hoodies printed with graphics, thigh-high woollen socks and frilly collars, cuffs and sleeves, it’s easy to wear and relatively affordable.
That’s not to say the range, available from today, hasn’t been created without Meadham Kirchhoff’s fans (of which there were and are many) in mind – quite the opposite. “This is for the young, my fanbase are not addressed in fashion now,” Meadham explains. “Everything is both totally unaffordable to them and aimed at some ‘type’ remote from them. There is nothing for girls, for kids and weirdos. Blue Roses is for them.”
Let’s hope it’s the first of many more “bits and bobs” from Meadham – for as one of fashion’s most brilliant and wildly imaginative creative minds, Meadham Kirchhoff’s closure left a gaping hole at London Fashion Week. As Blue Rose launches at Dover Street Market London and the DSM E-shop, the designer tells us more about the range and the weird and wonderful references behind it.
Can you tell me about this collection?
Edward Meadham: Firstly, it is not a collection. When I used to make collections they were, for me, all-encompassing universes, like silent plays with characters and costumes to fill their entire existence. This is just a small selection of stuff – bits and bobs.
What’s the story behind the name Blue Roses?
Edward Meadham: Blue Roses comes from Tennessee Williams’ play The Glass Menagerie and is a motif I have always used. For me, Blue Roses has a gazillion meanings, but I love that it is a metaphor for being a freak – broken and also artificial.
What kind of things were you inspired by?
Edward Meadham: There isn’t really a backstory for this project or an inspiration, so to speak, as it’s mainly t-shirts. Graphically, as always, I have made hefty references to the old flyers Courtney Love used to make for early Hole shows, which remain some of my all-time favourite images, as well as old riot-grrrl zines and record artwork. There are words, slogans and crazy scrawlings from my brain, including the motto ‘Love is revenge’, which has stuck with me for years and years and has made appearances on many things I have done.
“For me, Blue Roses has a gazillion meanings but I love that it is a metaphor for being a freak – broken and also artificial” – Edward Meadham
How is this range different to those you designed for Meadham Kirchhoff?
Edward Meadham: It not being a collection is its primary difference. These are just simple bits and bobs which are grounded in some reality and can be worn and adapted effortlessly and without care or thought. What I used to do was an attempt to achieve the highest level of beauty and craftsmanship I could hope for in my circumstances. Therefore they often became extremely expensive and fragile – these pieces are happily accessible price-wise and contextually, and are not exclusive to any body type or lifestyle.
What has it been like working independently?
Edward Meadham: My old partnership, creatively speaking, was more theoretical than anything else, so it doesn’t make much difference on that level. But in the old days I never used to be involved with production or logistics – I used to design and make stuff then decorate it. This has been a whole new experience for me – to be working pretty much entirely alone. I literally have never organised a thing before, so it was an extremely steep learning curve.
Is this the start of a new label?
Edward Meadham: We will see what the future holds – these last years have taught me to never be too hopeful and to not bother to predict anything, because unexpected things always happen.
Blue Roses is available at DSM London and the DSML E-shop today and at DSM New York and the DSMNY E-shop on December 7