Designer Heikki Salonen makes a comeback

After putting his eponymous brand on pause, Heikki Salonen is returning to London – see his first collection since 2012 in a new film

Heikki Salonen’s eponymous label burst onto the London scene in 2009 from under the wing of Fashion East, but in 2012 the Finnish designer put things on pause – leaving for Paris and jobs at prestigious labels including Diesel. After a few years off the schedule, the brand is back with Deadstock, a new capsule collection inspired by a world of music, cults and campfires that reworks fragments of past seasons for the present. Available exclusively at a pop up with Hostem on the corner of 71 Redchurch Street from today, get your first look at the line in the video above – directed by Johanna Laitanen and styled by Anna Pesonen.

How would you sum up this collection?

Heikki Salonen: Honesty. We wanted to do something poignant for boys and girls today, Flamboyant yet everyday. Wanted to as always create some sort of weird type of sophistication. Instead of a creating a mood board we went through the mood cupboard, all the past shapes, rolls of fabrics, my past experiences, ghosts and future ideas.

How has taking a break from the label allowed you to move forward?

Heikki Salonen: Having time off from my eponymous label to work in the deep end of the industry for years has truly allowed me to see, understand and appreciate ideas that were previously perhaps too close to me. It has also given me strength to explore the depths of the unknown in my mind.

“Having time off to work in the deep end of the industry has truly allowed me to see, understand and appreciate ideas that were previously perhaps too close to me. It has also given me strength to explore the depths of the unknown” – Heikki Salonen

What was the thought behind the video?

Heikki Salonen: Even though my initial idea for Deadstock was doing collection all about product, when we started to prep for the shoot, it came clear that there definitely was a look. It was great to see that even focusing on items the attitude came also through silhouette. I usually really hate total looks, but here it somehow feels ok, they are just maybe enough out there.

About the team behind it, I always want to work with people that I have real connection and are close to me, the video is very much about family affairs, it’s done by the guys who have basically always been there ever since we started back in 2007.

How have you curated the pop up space?

Heikki Salonen: I let the situation curate itself. We have been working in the space with our team for quite a few days and we kind of ended trashing it up. There is no really right or wrong in Deadstock, it is just working with material that is in hand.