Annelie Schubert is fast rising to the top of Germany’s next generation of young designers. When the 28-year-old took home the Première Vision Grand Prize at the 30th edition of the Hyères International Festival of Fashion and Photography in April, she was applauded by industry heavyweights like Carine Roitfeld and Chanel’s long-serving studio director Virginie Viard (AKA Karl’s right-hand woman). Her next target was Berlin, where, thanks to the Mercedes-Benz Designer Exchange programme, she took the city by storm as she showed her apron inspired collection at the city's own Fashion Week. We caught up with the young designer to chart three things you need to know about her.
SHE CUT HER TEETH AT HAIDER ACKERMANN
With a Bachelor’s degree in fashion design under her belt, she headed to Antwerp to intern as a design assistant with Columbian-born designer Haider Ackermann, explaining, “I’ve loved his work from the beginning and I was really touched by him – he definitely has an influence (on me).” After earning her stripes amongst some of the city’s fiercest up-and-coming talents in a hands-on Haider masterclass, she took up residence in Berlin to complete a Masters at Berlin’s Weissensee Art Academy.
SHE’S DECONSTRUCTING CLASSICS
For her breakout collection – debuted at the 30th edition of the Hyères International Festival of Fashion and Photography earlier this year – Schubert reappropriated the apron from kitchen attire to ready-to-wear, combining varying layers and weights of woollen fabrics with tweed, knits and silk organza. “I thought the apron was really interesting because it’s an open silhouette, so you can play with different material and layers. I think it sits at a really elegant length,” she explains. “For me, it was important that you wear not just one garment but different garments. The apron is perfect because you can see what’s underneath, I wanted to transport this functional thing into something more opulent. I think t’s really interesting to emanate an atmosphere from your material or a combination of it – it’s really powerful that I can really create a sense of coziness and comfort in a really subtle way.”
SHE’S CAUGHT THE ATTENTION OF CHANEL
The 28-year-old made her mark on France when she caught the attentions of the jury at the Hyères festival earlier this year. Not only did she nab the prestigious Première Vision Grand Prize – the same festival which acted as a springboard for fashion duo Viktor & Rolf when they won a talent contest there in 1993 – but the young designer was awarded a grant worth €15,000, alongside the opportunity to create five looks with Chanel's Métiers d'Art craftsmen. “It’s really great and you have the feeling you are on the right way,” says Schubert, who was judged by a panel featuring HRH The Princess of Hanover, French model Caroline de Maigret, designer Anthony Vaccarello, film director Loïc Prigent, architect/designer India Mahdavi and director of Chanel’s design studio director Virginie Viard.
