Initial reaction: 

After his tenure at Carven, Guillaume Henry's first collection for Nina Ricci was a lesson in sophisticated, subtle femininity – given a twist with unexpected techniques and quietly rebellious pieces. 

Unexpected textures: 

The designer kept the silhouettes long and the colours muted for his debut – with double breasted pea coats in midnight navy and sequinned T-shirt dresses which passed the knee. Although the collection felt relatively minimalist overall, more unusual, immaculately crafted creations cropped up throughout. Sheer lace dresses left underwear exposed while tops featured sections of fringing which looked like tufts of grass. Jumpers were made of different knits patch-worked together and longline coats appeared in cracked leathers. 

Stand out pieces: 

The thigh-high leather boots and translucent dress that added an undercurrent of feminine sexuality to the traditional bouclé coat they were paired with.