Issey Miyake AW15

Initial reaction: 

If M.C. Escher had embraced colour and turned to technical fashion design.

Swallowing silhouettes:

This Issey Miyake collection was a game of exacerbated proportions, as models swirled around, Sound of Music style, in Yoshiyuki Miyamae’s designs. What first appeared as a deliberate shapelessness revealed itself as calculated layering – loose, enveloping tops were paired with skirts, full at the hips to create illusions of form. Wide leg, billowing trousers lengthened figures, while upturned collars and structured shawls tied around shoulders added extra volume to top halves. The collection was sculptural and pronounced – qualities to be expected from a label responsible for the creation of a collapsable tubular dress.

The 3D effect:

Miyamae is somewhat of a technical mastermind. Pre-woven patterns were brought to life using steam – creating standout 3D effect coats, skirts and tops in colours like darkened teal, muddied acid yellow and a strident Tim Burton-esque purple. Chevron prints appeared on the hems of sleeves and skirts to trick the eye, while the penultimate looks were covered in trompe l’oeil geometric prints.