Recession cast its bleak shadow on some of the designers at the recent Milan Fashion Week, but certainly not on Francesco Scognamiglio (www.francescoscognamiglio.it). His new collection was characterised by a palette that comprised gold and camel shades and nuances with occasional splashes of black, white and turquoise. Scognamiglio also employed lavishly luxurious materials to design a rich wardrobe for a wealthy, powerful and sensual woman. Wool and silk blends featured 18-karat gold threads; golden jodhpurs and immaculate white trouser suits were characterised by severe lines; astrakhan coats were clutched at the waist by heavy metal belts. Movement was created by forming origami-like folds on tops and skirts, by minutely pleating fan-like motifs on dresses and by adding stegosaurus-like ruffles on the sleeves and ruches borrowed from the style of noblemen from the Spanish Golden Century on the designer’s signature blouses. The emphasis remained on the shoulders and hemlines that were either extremely long or short.

Accessories added an important note to the whole collection: architectural cage-like metallic structures trapped the body, sharp spikes decorated crocodile bags and collar-like necklaces, while tall boots were entirely covered in metal studs. Philip Treacy’s (www.philiptreacy.co.uk) tall dragoon, hussar and gendarme hats gave a militaristic touch to this collection dedicated to strong and passionate queens of luxury.     

Dazed Digital: How did you feel at the end of your catwalk show?
Francesco Scognamiglio: There was a great tension behind the scenes, but when the catwalk finished I realised this is probably my strongest and most important collection so far. The most beautiful thing was seeing some people crying at the end of the show. I heard some journalists exaggerating, stating that this was the most beautiful collection presented at Milan Fashion Week. I was really pleased about all these positive comments and I hope that this collection will reach out to a wider customer base, yet for the time being I will keep on serenely working developing my style and keep my feet firmly on the ground.

DD: Your muse seems to have grown into a stronger and more powerful woman, would you agree?
FS: My main aim with this collection was solemnly celebrating a romantic, passionate and proud woman and bring back on the catwalk a strong femininity. The collection was also inspired by wealth and luxury, symbolised by the organza and boucle wool with golden strands. The black colour prevailed in many collections we saw at the recent catwalks, almost to remind us we are living in a financially critical moment, but I wanted add a luxurious and opulent touch to my vision of femininity.  

DD: For the first time you added to your collection a few knitwear pieces, did you find hard working on them?
FS: A lot of work and long research hours went into the ultra-light 18-karat laminated knits. We worked with one of the leading knitwear industries in Italy that also collaborates with important designers, such as Balenciaga and Givenchy, and I was really happy with the amazing results we got.  

DD: Can you talk us through your creative process, do you also focus on developing your own accessories?
FS: I always follow my instincts in creating and designing new proportions and volumes in the details. I never find difficult designing a collection and then actually making it, but I love researching and finding new ways to communicate through my designs different emotions. I worked a lot on the accessories for this collection, coming up with some necklaces I defined as “willingly perverse”, because they had very sharp spikes, though I matched them with rather classic outfits. I wanted to explore these almost dichotomic contradictions and send out a message to women, reminding them to be strong and powerful and never feel intimidated by what happens around them.

DD: Can you tell us more about your collaboration with Philip Treacy?
FS: I met Philip in Milan a while back and kept in touch with him throughout the years. Yet it was only this season that, since we were both available and still willing to collaborate together, we finally managed to work on a project together. I was very happy he accepted to work on the three hats that gave an elegant touch to the main inspirations behind my collection. I sent him all the materials, fabrics, accessories and also some sketches that delineated my inspirations for this collection. I never saw his designs while he was working on them, but, when I saw the finished hats, I had the confirmation Philip is a genius as he understood my ideas and perfectly interpreted the spirit behind my designs.          

DD: Which was your favourite collection from the recent New York and London fashion weeks?
FS: I admire Marc Jacobs’s work and philosophy as he always seems to bring innovative ideas into fashion, yet amongst the youngest designers who belong to my generation I think the Rodarte sisters are producing some really special designs.  

Photography by Marcio Madeira