Katherine Waterston in Inherent Vice – 70s bohemia is back.
Gear from yesteryear:
“One of our main influences was looking at the 20s through a 70s lens,” said one half of Creatures of the Wind, designer Shane Gabier. The palette was rich with opulent Art Deco hues – especially the gold olive, which Gabier said “has reappeared in different decades, different places and in different subcultures.” Dyed python shoes were another detail inspired by past American style moments: seen on footwear in the 20s, used in 50s rockabilly culture and featured again in glam culture of the 70s – and they have maintained their appeal. Strikingly tall black hats also appeared – a collaboration with NY-based milliner Molly Yestadt, inspired by Alejandro Jodorowsky’s 1973 film The Holy Mountain. The collection was all about bringing the forgotten culture of psychedelia back in to current consciousness.
The music the designers were listening to on repeat in the studio became this season’s runway setlist. Silver Apples’ psychedelic “Seagreen Serenade” opened the show, followed by Captain Beefheart’s guitar-drenched “Autumn’s Child”, while Broadcast’s “Goodbye Girls” appropriately rounded off the soundtrack for the finale. The music matched the idea behind the collection, by blending a mixture of alternative American subcultures.