Ann Demeulemeester’s penchant for poetics has been tempered to bring the house into the 21st century, as this menswear collection was amped up with sharper cuts and a braver approach towards the deconstruction elements that have always been done with a delicate hand. Whilst still brooding and pensive, under new-ish creative director Sebastien Meunier, the Ann Demeulemeester boy is venturing towards a more rebellious stance, emphasised by darkened furrowed brows and a stomp of the chelsea boot.
There were signs that Meunier is beginning to put more of his own stamp on Ann Demulemeester as opposed to reiterating house codes. You could see it in the slightly more experimental colour palette, wading into shades of red, forest green and mustard. You could also see it in the cut of the spliced jackets and parkas with multiple fastenings and extra zippers.
The soothing vocals of The Kinks’ “I Go to Sleep” covered by British-German artist Anika – a dark lullaby for these tempestuous troubadours.