Initial reaction:

It wasn’t a John Galliano for Maison Margiela menswear collection, nor was it intended to be. But that didn’t take anything away from the carefree disco swagger that unexpectedly emerged inside the raved-up Salle Wagram, where green laser light met gilded chandeliers. Outfits weren’t head-to-toe ensembles, but mixed up and random. The dress codes were jumbled up as the house’s love of deconstruction came into play. “Disconnected, disorderly, inspired. Democratic,” read the press release. If a man had any pick of this Margiela wardrobe, he’d end up dancing late into the night in whatever he chose – fuelled by its electric energy.  

Boogie Nights:

Maison Margiela has always had a unique way of mining the past, evidenced primarily by the Artisanal collection.  And here, certain elements jumped out at you and screamed “Boogie Nights”, from the petrol leather jackets to the chevron striped lurex knits, to the retro floral skinny trousers. A fractal printed leather waistcoat and an oversized distressed jacket – that looked like it was printed with collaged floorboards and faded tiles – avoided any 1970s pastiche.  

Not by John:

There was some confusion as to who the collection should be attributed to. This was clarified after the show as the label referred to this as a “transitional season”. Although Galliano created menswear for his own line, as a designer known more for his womenswear, it's a wonder what sort of hand he’d take to a brand like Margiela – where both genders are on an equal footing. Only time will tell.

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