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Moncler Gamme Bleu AW15, ski glasses, Menswear, Dazed
Backstage at Moncler Gamme Bleu AW15Photography Paolo Musa

Moncler Gamme Bleu AW15

Off to the races: Thom Browne borrows from Moncler heritage for a jockey inspired collection – with a nod to Fritz Lang

TextBiju BelinkyPhotographyPaolo Musa

Initial reaction:

Sequinned jockeys in shining boots and goggles, decorated with Thom Browne’s signature red, white and blue accents.

New classics:

Browne’s vision for Moncler Gamme Bleu is about retaining the brand’s most classic and distinctive elements (see this season’s abundance of down jackets and almost salopette-style trousers) but injecting his own surrealism. In his hands, Moncler’s sporting heritage is a well of theatricality to draw from – whether boxers, golfers, or as in this season, jockeys clad in a mix of classic tailoring (with bold patterns that mirrored the sporting uniforms) outerwear and experimental textures.

Into the metropolis:

This season Browne took his music from Fritz Lang’s Metropolis, but it wasn't the only thing he borrowed: the peakless caps models wore seemed a deliberate nod to the uniforms of the film’s factory workers.