Initial reaction:
Set within Martine Rose’s strange and dreamlike glitter-strewn sitting room tableaux, with flyer-style lookbook images scattered around the floor, it felt like you’d walked in on a beautiful rave aftermath – with boys (including Frank Lebon) in super baggy trousers, hoodies and boxy leather jackets. “There’s something that draws me to imagery on the floor. I love that lost and found thing,” Martine Rose said. Revisiting AW14’s crusty scene references via sportswear, it was also a very personal exploration of Rose’s teen rave days. “My nineties references are really subconscious. There’s definitely not an intentional thing. I guess that’s my teenage years, the point where I became sort of aware of fashion and music.”
#BEENTRILL#:
AW15 sees Rose working with the multidisciplinary #BEENTRILL# collective for the first time – a collaboration that came about after an introduction by Kim Jones. “The conversation with #BEENTRILL# was so organic,” Rose said. “It oscillated between music and pieces from my archive that they really liked. It all felt very natural, very right. We have the same references.”
The power of the odd:
In a way, this was a honing of Rose’s greatest hits; bringing a new focus to her outsider boys, while revisiting some of the archive pieces that hold the most meaning to her– like a T-shirt printed with the phrase: ‘’90-’91 Autumn & Winter Collection’. “I used that for SS14 and it still felt like something I wanted to rework. Things that I find really exciting are often things that feel really odd, whether it’s a fabrication, a silhouette or a phrase. And that phrase is so odd and it throws people. The wrong season, the wrong year. People always ask about it, which is the point I guess,” Rose said.
See Martine Rose’s AW15 lookbook below, and read a recent interview with the designer here, complete with the tracks that inspired AW15.
