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Backstage at Jil Sander SS15
From left Kai Newman (WHY NOT), Julia Bergshoeff (WHY NOT), Nastya Sten (Elite), Anine van Velzen (IMG) and Heidi Krakstrom (Elite) backstage at Jil Sander SS15Photography Lea Colombo

Jil Sander SS15

Schoolgirl innocence and 30s androgyny sets the tone as Rodolfo Paglialunga makes his debut as creative director

TextSusie LauPhotographyLea Colombo

Initial reaction:

The androgynous look of Swiss photographer and writer of the 30s Annemarie Schwarzenbach. A quick Google image search on her yields pic after pic of what is essentially Jil Sander muse eye candy, summed up as "elegant indifference". An open front and back satin white shirt worn semi-tucked into a cut-away knee length skirt on Julia Nobis was simmering with the attitude of Schwarzenbach.   

New rules:

New set configuration at Jil Sander HQ to go with a new creative director's Rodolfo Paglialunga's debut for the brand. It was a uniform shift away from the severe graphic austerity of Sander's last few collections. For SS15 the emphasis was on "uniform", as schoolgirl vibes crept in through the palette of blues and burgundies, the repeated blue shirts and even the leather socks (a blast from Paglialunga's Prada past when he was womenswear design director there). Backstage, Paglialunga was eager to stress that he wanted to make clothes for real women in real life. That was of course always Sander's own remit. Figuring out what "real" women want for "real" life though has become a more complicated task in a far more crowded marketplace. The applause at the end of the show was rousing and heartfelt. Was this a sigh of relief that perhaps the house can now enter some form of stability under Paglialunga?

What is minimal: 

Paglialunga isn't setting strict parameters for himself at Jil Sander, despite following two tough acts in Raf Simons and of course Sander herself. He didn't look at archives (“I grew up looking at Jil Sander all the time”) and he wants to push the house beyond an imagined idea of minimalism. “What is minimal today? I don't know exactly. This is a big question. I lived during the minimal 90s years. But now everything has changed. Minimal, maximal - the boundaries change all the time. I did something that's simple and wearable but I didn't think about whether it falls into minimalism or not.”

Models: Anine van Velzen (@anineamsterdam), Harleth Kuusik (@harlethkuusik), Hedvig Palm (@hedvigpa), Heidi Krakstrom(@heidikrakstrom), Julia Bergshoeff (@juliabergshoeff), Julia Nobis, Kai Newman, Lee Kelters (@LeeKelters), Leila Nda, Llvie Wittek, Mia Gruenwald, Mina Cvetkovic (@HOW_ABOUT_MINA), Natstya Sten, Ondria Hardin (@IamOndriaHardin), Paulina King (@paulinaking12), Sabina Lobova (@sabinalobova), Waleska Gorczevski (@waleska-gorczevski).