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Mary Katrantzou SS15, womenswear, Dazed backstage
Iana Godnia (M+P) Backstage at Mary Katrantzou SS15

Mary Katrantzou SS15

An indulgence in texture and new-found muted palette signifies the next step in Katrantzou’s evolution from her print master beginnings

Initial reaction:

With Pangaea, the ancient super continent providing inspiration, Mary signalled her evolution. Models stomped down a runway overcome with black lava chips as if emerging from the primordial ooze itself, whilst Sigur Rós swooned overhead. With a disused warehouse serving as a prime location for reinvention, Katrantzou has expertly moved from digi-print queen into a truly diverse designer. 

A whole new world:

Gone are the overwhelmingly intricate designs and fishbone corsets that we’ve come to associate with Katrantzou – instead she offered up a renewed elegance deeply rooted in simplicity and form. Texture, as opposed to print, was to rule this new land, with Katrantzou sidestepping the digital and instead injecting her sartorial offering with renewed vibrancy in the form sumptuous textures of satin, silk and sheen. A decidedly muted palette launched the show, before evolving into a more traditional Katrantzou offering. Purples, yellows and reds crept onto skirts and tops before taking over completely in the form of adorned shifts and separates.

Stand-out looks:

Sequinned coral branches snaked around the body and played peek-a-boo through sheer panels, whilst strategic cutouts referenced the tectonic plates of her inspiration.