Just a few days prior to Louis Vuitton’s Cruise show – Nicolas Ghesquière’s first as artistic director of womenswear – the designer posted an image of a stark and minimalist 70s apartment block on his Instagram feed. It was a curious snapshot into a location. The collection was shown in Monte Carlo, a destination steeped so heavily in history and excess that any sense of normality is found tucked away in the winding side streets. We all know Ghesquière is revered for his modernist eye; but as his second collection for Vuitton unfolded inside a purpose-made transparent box overlooking the opulent Place du Palais, it became clear that he’s really pushing himself to take hold of these disparate feelings and references to stamp his own mark.
That’s exactly what Ghesquière achieved. It was a brave and bold collection, with an intelligent dose of perversion thrown in. Girls stalked the runway on LED video screens created by artist Ange Leccia – so they quite literally walked on digital water – wearing sharp python jackets, hallucinogenic floral prints and tailored A-line suits. Michel Gaubert’s soundtrack – featuring Robyn and Röyksopp’s “Monument” – provided a pulsating backdrop to an experience that can only be described as watching a whole new universe unfold. And the emphasis is still very much on newness; Ghesquière’s vision for Vuitton still feels somewhat unfamiliar, and is opening up a fresh language for the fashion world. Those witnessing the show felt the presence of new fearlessness; a strong progression from his debut in March and one that only fuels the excitement surrounding his next collection.
Re-watch the Louis Vuitton Cruise 2015 show below:
