Initial reaction:

A new elegance from the Korean designer, yet one that’s powerful, dominating and dark. Everything was super slick, from the ponyskin coats that looked as if water was running off them, to the fine leather skintight shirts.

Silhouette:

Focus never left the upper body, from the massively oversized broad shoulders of wool city coats to the final pinstripe jackets ten sizes too big and drawn in at the wrists and waist – here the shoulders became full, sloping and almost feminine in their eighties silhouette. Boxy t-shirt looks on leather tops and oversized polo necks were angular, and almost hulk-like in the way they distorted the body. Trousers were leather and loose, with elasticated waists, or super tight and zipped from the foot.

How they wore it:

With super slick hair, not a strand out of place and eyes were shadowy and a little hollowed. The leather gloves worn with every look had an undertone of threat; especially those pulled up over wrists and forearms, and meant that throughout the whole collection, the only skin on show was the face.

Stand out looks:

Those that drifted into streetwear: the, almost casual, leather and navy pinstripe boiler suits with soft hoods; a black ponyskin bomber jacket worn over a leather, longer bomber jacket; and an incredible dark green ponyskin biker jacket. An oversized green felt coat had lapels the width of shoulders, and long sleeves that left just the fingertips showing. A thick glossy fur coat in blurred shades of gold and brown and a cocooning wrap collar, reduced to just a collar in the next look.

Colour impressions:

Subtle shifts from black to dark green, navy and grey were surrealist in the way they were blocked on gloves, sleeves or boxy jackets – almost Duchamp-esque. A bulging green vinyl puffa jacket was oily in colour and almost metallic. For the finale, models wore huge leather cape overcoats with engulfing elasticated collar hoods, the leather covered entirely with bright branding and print. An explosion of messages, street wear codes and youth after such a refined show.