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Maison Martin Margiela AW14

In the confines of a French communist party HQ came high tech hardware for Margiela purists

Initial reaction:

High tech hardware for Margiela purists. The show took place at the headquarters of the French communist party, a suitably stark and modernist setting.

How they wore it:

Undone, messed up, and a little dishevelled: shirts were left un-tucked, with top buttons undone and cuffs roughly folded up. Jacket lapels were pressed back in a straight fold, right back to where the suit fabric meets the lining. A model walked with fists jutting into the fur pockets of his coat, so that they stuck out uncomfortably. Hair was caught in unexpected tufts, like when you run your fingers through it first thing in the morning. Despite this haste to dress however, broad shouldered coats maintained a powerful, masculine silhouette.

House codes:

Deconstructive cut and creation came in a dove grey trench with its buckle twisted to the side, one edge pulled up in an awkward fold like it had been tucked into the trouser waist band. A black wool cape had a black leather cape attached on top of it, which appeared to hang as if falling of the shoulders. The last look of a long black wool cape, gripped at the chest over black suiting, was a final sweep of Margiela majesty.

Stand out looks:

A cape/trench hybrid, where seams, folds and fastenings blurred in a swoop of wool and gabardine cotton wrapped around the body, buttons and buckles misplaced. A high-tech expedition-ready coat, black straps and buckles holding the pieces together like a complex parachute. And a peach taupe classic city coat, oversized and hanging off the shoulders, worn over an incredible structured leather waistcoat, slightly disjointed in its construction and tanned as if with teak.

Unexpected details:

Suspender clips which appeared from beneath coats and stretched across the chest to clip the opposite lapel of a coat or jacket. Lacquered bright blue panels on a jacket and mac, with webbed straps and handles like those rolled expedition bags worn by bike couriers. A jacket and suit appeared frost bitten as bleach like patches spread from the shoulders.