Haider Ackermann AW14

Initial reaction:

Dishevelled, sleepless bohemians emerge from the depths of their nighttime haunts, or smoky apartments, to face the world in languid layers and hidden opulence.

Ackermann’s dandy:

Scarves knotted and wrapped loosely around the neck and over the chest spilled between coat lapels and atop shirts like a dandy’s cravat. The loose drop waist of the harem style pants, held up and gathered by belts, and the Moroccan-like tile print on coats and scarves felt like a traveller’s wardrobe additions, while the odd stripe on a layered jacket felt eccentric. Under all those languid layers, the truly luxurious pieces became partially hidden and disguised – like the fur-trimmed parka.

And his girl:

Wrapping up in her man’s clothes, the Ackermann girl appears in a taupe button-less wool jacket, cinched at the waist with a long leather belt left to hang. Hands are hidden under extra long sleeves, and the loose waist trousers bunch around slender ankles.

Colour impressions:

Grey flannel and maroon herringbone with murky lilac, navy and green. In the last looks, our bohemian appeared to step into the harsh light of day, in a shrunken white waistcoat with white pullover, and stately monochrome tile print overcoat.

How they wore it:

With slightly red eyes and pale skin, hair a little greasy and swept back from the face with hands. Sleeves were long over the hands, and the thick wool socks worn with polished brogues peeped beneath the short crop of trousers.