Initial reaction:

Comic strip heroes, in the vein of Dick Tracy, meet sci-fi special agents, in camel coats with cartoonishly broad shoulders and gold metallic.

So slogan:

Few labels epitomise the brand name-heavy nineties like Calvin Klein, so it was only fitting that creative director Italo Zucchelli joined the nineties-style logomania conversation that's happening right now with sweatshirts featuring the brand's perfume logos: Obsession, Eternity and Escape. So good, so right for now.

Silhouette:

Shoulders were exaggerated and very macho, made more so by wide un-fitted sleeves: coats were broad, and sweaters felt rounded and sculptural. Quilting on bomber jackets and sweaters added to the cartoon effect. Trousers were languid – those in metallic draped like liquid – or tailored and narrow, ending in a wide, crisp turn-up.

How they wore it:

With hair painted a green-black or camel-gold and gelled to the max. Thick layers of leather, quilting and wool styled one over the other suggested protection, and continued the super hero theme.

Left us wondering:

With their camel-on-camel and khaki green-on-khaki green looks, with matching hair and the perfume logo sweatshirts added to that, the collection came across as a very unified thing – a strong brand identity, with everything merged together into one form.

The soundtrack was "Vienna" by Ultravox