Versace AW14

Initial reaction:

The high note at the end of Milan day one: Donatella took a theme – gay, camp and fabulous – and ran with it.

Quote of the show:

"It was an expression of freedom. I think it's really important today with what's going on in the world with civil rights and love." - Donatella Versace

Codes, codes, codes:

Donatella ticked off every gay code in modern culture. Handkerchiefs poked out of back pockets (used in the seventies to indicate sexual fetishes), and the show invite was a silk handkerchief. Rhinestone cowboys were embellished with crystal horseshoes, cacti and sheriff’s stars. And there were chaps, and codpieces! Only Donatella can do a studded leather codpiece over leather trousers and make it mega – it was reminiscent of those sparkly Speedos in Behind the Candelabra. Not even macho biker helmets could dampen the vamp.

Atmosphere:

OTT and oh so fun: revving motorcycles marked the show’s start, with bursts of fog machine and strobe lights inside a space styled like an industrial club. “Do You Wanna Funk” closed the show.

Stand out looks:

Those that amped up Versace’s unique, more-is-more approach to luxe: the chinchilla fur jacket, the baroque Versace print transformed into a western cowboy illustration on silk shirts, the gold medusa buttons, a padlock medallion and neon graffiti-ed denim.