Astrid Andersen AW14

Initial reaction:

Streetwear with a very sexualised undercurrent: satin finishes glided off the limbs of muscled models, and metallic baby blue Sophie Hallette lace countered the heavy American hip hop culture riffs. Missy Elliott’s ‘Hot Boyz’ soundtracked: “You a hot boy, a rock boy. A fun toy, tote a Glock boy”

Stand out looks:

Clashing proportions and silhouettes disregarded traditional masculine concepts: a lyrca one-sleeve leotard worn with loose brocade print pants and heavy black boots; gangster mink coats in powder blue trim; and quilted dove grey satin. Andersen’s logo appeared shorn into mink on the back of jackets, thanks to a first-time collaboration with Swakara from Kopenhagen Fur.

How they wore it:

Eschewing stereotypes, Andersen draped delicate chain necklaces over the loose silhouettes. The collaboration with Black Dakini is Andersen’s jewellery debut. The long, poker-straight hair drew envy from the front row.

References:

Andersen cites the 2013 Nicolas Winding Refn film Only God Forgives as her major inspiration, drawing on the contrast of brutality and softly beautiful masculine figures.

Quote of the show:

"This season stemmed from a movie called Only God Forgives, it's not the type of movie that I would normally like actually, but I was totally mesmerised by it. That combination of something really brutal and something really delicate and sensitive. I wanted to translate the mood basically, I always want to explore new fabric. I’m fascinated with these boys who are so hard but then they’re also so sensitive, I think it’s just a generation of boys. So, I think it’s my own fascination with this guy that I try to translate into a way of dressing them. Like with the fur this season, it’s a material that’s maybe not done in the best way for men, because it’s considered a feminine fabric, a very feminine feature so that’s kind of why I want to use it." Astrid Andersen