Sexualised undercurrents tore through a show of feminine lace, mink fur and hip hop riffs
Streetwear with a very sexualised undercurrent: satin finishes glided off the limbs of muscled models, and metallic baby blue Sophie Hallette lace countered the heavy American hip hop culture riffs. Missy Elliott’s ‘Hot Boyz’ soundtracked: “You a hot boy, a rock boy. A fun toy, tote a Glock boy”
Stand out looks:
Clashing proportions and silhouettes disregarded traditional masculine concepts: a lyrca one-sleeve leotard worn with loose brocade print pants and heavy black boots; gangster mink coats in powder blue trim; and quilted dove grey satin. Andersen’s logo appeared shorn into mink on the back of jackets, thanks to a first-time collaboration with Swakara from Kopenhagen Fur.
How they wore it:
Eschewing stereotypes, Andersen draped delicate chain necklaces over the loose silhouettes. The collaboration with Black Dakini is Andersen’s jewellery debut. The long, poker-straight hair drew envy from the front row.
Andersen cites the 2013 Nicolas Winding Refn film Only God Forgives as her major inspiration, drawing on the contrast of brutality and softly beautiful masculine figures.
Quote of the show:
"This season stemmed from a movie called Only God Forgives, it's not the type of movie that I would normally like actually, but I was totally mesmerised by it. That combination of something really brutal and something really delicate and sensitive. I wanted to translate the mood basically, I always want to explore new fabric. I’m fascinated with these boys who are so hard but then they’re also so sensitive, I think it’s just a generation of boys. So, I think it’s my own fascination with this guy that I try to translate into a way of dressing them. Like with the fur this season, it’s a material that’s maybe not done in the best way for men, because it’s considered a feminine fabric, a very feminine feature so that’s kind of why I want to use it." Astrid Andersen