Fashion / IncomingOpinion: a sombre departure for Marc Jacobs?We decipher the hidden codes behind Jacobs' hauntingly macabre final collection for VuittonShareLink copied ✔️October 2, 2013FashionIncomingTextIsabella BurleyLouis Vuitton SS14 There was no need for an official announcement. The opening look at this morning’s Louis Vuitton show – Marc Jacob’s last as creative director – made more than enough of a statement. Within seconds it ignited a Twitter frenzy and cast a haunting spell over the final day of Paris fashion week. The ‘look’ in question was a nude Edie Campbell who appeared on the runway covered in body paint art by Stephen Sprouse, ‘Louis Vuitton’ scrawled over her body just like the graffiti that runs through the streets of Paris. Then there were the black chains that clung to her wrists, glistening with embellishments. Without being crude, Jacobs couldn’t have been clearer, or more obvious, that this was his final statement – his last words. He was reminding us of the chains that have kept him so closely tied to the Maison during his sixteen year tenure, and within the next ten minutes they would be taken off for good. As perverse as that symbolism sounds, it was true. Jacobs sent out a gang of sombre and expired showgirls dressed entirely in jet black. It was as though the circus had been cancelled; the girls were in mourning and preparing for their final performance Now, just to remind you, this was a spring/summer collection. Wanting to leave his mark, Jacobs sent out a gang of sombre and expired showgirls dressed entirely in jet black. It was as though the circus had been cancelled; the girls were in mourning and preparing for their final performance. Their black feather headdresses by Stephen Jones still upright, but everything felt completely off balance. In the centre of the runway, a black lacquered carrousel spun slowly. It could’ve easily been a prop taken from the set of a horror film or stolen from a derelict amusement park. Perched on top of the carrousel’s moving horses were supermodels Eva Herzigova, Natasha Poly and Kate Upton in heavily beaded black ensembles. It was odd. They sat there, slowly spinning, watching the sombre circus unfold. Was this homage to the muses so closely tied to Jacobs’ time at Vuitton as they spun into oblivion? Louis Vuitton SS14Photography by Lea Colombo The final sentence in Jacobs’ show notes read: ‘To the showgirls in all of us’, and as this afternoon’s opinions on his departure take over the internet, I can’t help but think that his final collection felt somewhat sullen. I mean, it was a magnificent collection with incredible craftsmanship, but I still can’t shake the feeling. Perhaps it was the gloomy set dripping in black paint, much of it taken from Marc Jacob’s own Louis Vuitton archive (the carousel from SS12, the escalators from SS13 and a glossy black fountain from AW10) which unravelled like some sort of greatest hits tribute. It seemed like such a dark and sombre way to depart. I also think it was Jacobs’ final walk around the runway that set the tone, it felt like he was uncomfortable up there and left me with a strange feeling. In the past sixteen years he given us so many great moments and pioneered so much for the Maison – his Richard Prince collaboration marking a pinnacle moment in pop culture. So, what’s next? Rumours of Nicholas Ghesquière taking over are at an all time high, but for now we will just have to wait. Escape the algorithm! Get The DropEmail address SIGN UP Get must-see stories direct to your inbox every weekday. Privacy policy Thank you. You have been subscribed Privacy policy Expand your creative community and connect with 15,000 creatives from around the world.READ MOREHas the fashion industry really changed since America’s Next Top Model?Karol G fronts Reebok Classics’ new eraFashion East AW26 took us on a treasure hunt to south LondonIn pictures: Behind the scenes at Masha Popova’s LFW comebackThevxlley smashes its London Fashion Week debut (literally)BAFTAs 2026: All the best looks from British film’s biggest nightPull&BearKaroline Vitto: ‘I just wanted people to start feeling a bit hopeful’Ghostly figures plagued the runway at LUEDER’s London showTolu Coker takes the throne at London Fashion Week AW26Central Saint Martins’ graduating class came in hot for 2026KNWLS is going ‘ballistic’ for AW26Nightlife icon David Hoyle talks Heated Rivalry and cruising in MuglerEscape the algorithm! Get The DropEmail address SIGN UP Get must-see stories direct to your inbox every weekday. Privacy policy Thank you. You have been subscribed Privacy policy