Last week, to mark the July issue of Dazed & Confused, we hosted the Dazed ‘Trash Fashion Forum’ - a live panel discussion that sought to explore the past, present and evolving future of ‘trash’ culture. Presented in association with Protein, the evening’s speakers included Hussein Chalayan, Caroline Evans, Nasir Mazhar, Luke Brooks, Claire Storey and Kieren Jones. Together each of the panelists shared their perspectives on ‘Trash Fashion’, how punk mentalities of reclaiming have become increasingly relevant today and the emergence of a DIY aesthetic in the younger generation of designers. Most controversial was the subject of our disposable culture, sustainability and the pros and cons of fast fashion.
Here, we present a video that charts the forum’s highlights and we reveal the full edit of Paolo Roversi and Dazed's Fashion Director, Robbie Spencer's 30-page 'Trash Fashion' shoot.
Hussein Chalayan
"Poverty was really important to me as a student. I'm really glad I was really poor; I had to find solutions. These days, a lot of students look like clients of the school they’re in. They’re too polished, too slick – there’s no experimentation going on. I actually think not having money while studying is really important. If I would have children and I was really rich, I wouldn’t give them money."
Caroline Evans
“When Chanel started using jersey in 1913, which up until then had only been used for underwear, the couturier [Paul] Poiret accused her of “deluxe miserablism” or “deluxe poverty”."
Kieren Jones
“Now that conventional fashion has homogenised and we all look the same, I think there’s this need to see waste as an opportunity to do something a little bit different. For me it’s about this richness and this heritage that you don’t get with new, sparkly things.”
Claire Storey
"I’d just collect the ugliest things I could find and I wanted to prove that I could make a beautiful collection out of something worthless."
Luke Brooks
"The Central Saint Martins MA has become very slick in recent years, and I was aware that if I did something very raw I would stand out."
Nasir Mazhar
"I think it's really funny that nobody who went to the [Punk Chaos to Couture] Met Ball looked punk at all. And they didn’t want to look punk at all, they wanted to wear ballgowns to the Met Ball. Personally I thought it was a really bad mistake. I was hoping someone would do something a bit rebellious but actually none of the guests wanted to."
CREDITS
Hair Yannick D’Is at Management Artists
Make-up Adrien Pinault at Management Artists using Mac
Nails Elsa Deslandes at Majeure Prod
Set Design Jean-Hugues De Chatillion
Models Kati Nescher and Vanessa Axente at Viva, Ondria Hardin at Elite, Marie Pivosan at Oui
Photographic assistants Melanie Rey, Barbara Marangon
Styling assistants Coline Bach, Maia Hawad
Hair assistant Olivier Henry
Make-up assistant Laura Casadoarino
Digital Operator Matteo Miani at D’Touch
Location Studio Luce, Paris
Production Art + Commerce
