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Haider Ackermann Menswear SS14

The designer kicks off Paris with his first full menswear wardrobe

It’s been a few years since Haider Ackermann gave us an initial glimpse into his menswear universe at Pitti in Florence. Yesterday, the designer unveiled a full men’s wardrobe during an intimate presentation at a disused warehouse space in the Marais, and the almost three-year-long radio silence was more than worth the wait.

Sumptuousness in menswear can be a delicate matter, but in Ackermann’s hands, lavish jacquards and rich silks held a noble and elegant masculinity, set off by the heavily tattooed skin of his models and the beautifully nonchalant pyjama languor so intrinsic to the designer’s poetic clothes.

There was also a strong presence of the man himself, especially in the drop-crotch trousers that Ackermann favours in his own wardrobe, and the collection was imbued with the sort of dark, jewel-coloured splendour that Ackermann has often explored in his womenswear.