Fucked-up hair that’s clearly been hitting the tiles, footless tights underneath faded denim flare skirts, patent pumps and lumberjack slash varsity jackets were what we saw at Junya Watanabe’s show. Someone on this author’s Instagram commented on a snap from the Junya show, asking if it was 2002 again. Well in 2002, Watanabe was toiling away at his flared 'n' faded denim, as relevant today as it was back then. Other Watanabe-isms like the much-used plaid and checks were worked into familiar long tweed coats and short varsity-ribbed jackets that sometimes curved out at the back. They were rendered in Brady Bunch orange, yellow and brown colourways, looking retro yet fresh at the same time, such is their context within the current fashion landscape. The black leather biker jackets and sculpted capes, which Watanabe has based entire collections on, took on a Spanish sheen as Watanabe collaborated with luxury leather label Loewe, the brand's amazona bag was on display as a gesture. The first part of the Watanabe and Loewe collaboration consists of a dress, jacket and three bags (shown on the shoulder, in softer rounder shapes), all of which were designed by Junya Watanabe but were made and arranged by Loewe – who they will not be sold by. The second part is a capsule collection consisting of clothing and bags in tweed, to be launched at both Comme and Loewe stores in September.

We have seen Watanabe do these things before and but this season felt like he was taking ownership of them. In the wrong hands faded denim, biker black leathers and patchwork plaid could look… well, wrong. That certainly wasn’t the case here.

Hair: Orlando Pita

Makeup: Pat McGrath

Models pictured: Alexandra Tikerpuu-@Alehhhhhandro, Zhanna Tikhobrazova-@zhanna_ti, Natalia Adamowska-@adam_natalia, Ilona Swagemakers-@iloona01