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Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci Haute Couture A/W12

Gypsy, 1960s and total Tisci

It's fair to say Riccardo Tisci has mastered potency – distilling Givenchy's haute couture to an intimate, appointment-only presentation with collection photography by Willy Vanderperre has become, over the last five seasons, a ritual that has intensified his street meets (gilded) salon language even further.

Putting rarefied clothes in an even more rarefied context has logic and offering such a focused selection of looks has allowed them to be even further laboured over, with the most intricate geometric detailing that goes beyond embellishment, worked into each garment.

This season, Tisci contrasted gypsy opulence with Hubert de Givenchy's 1960s lines and cocoon capes. Mink is shaved and laser-cut to form fur 'lace' embroidered with red caged crystals and red leather-covered crystals; column dresses have their shape complimentented with tassels of leather or silk fringing.

That Tisci can make the most hardcore strand of fashion have the throw-on ease and cool temperament of one of his iconic t-shirts – whilst remaining nothing less than the awe-inspiring – is attestation of his rare talent, a designer who not just recognises how couture must fit into life today, it's intuitive.