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Kenji Kawasumi


Amy Gwatkin and Dazed's Nell Kalonji pick eight top CSM students off the back of their LFW show for this exclusive Dazed Digital editorial

StylingNelma KalonjiPhotographyAmy Gwatkin

London's Central Saint Martins needs no introduction. Famous for ignoring conventions, the college insists on a creative intensity, which has helped to launch a thousand (international) careers. During London Fashion Week, instead of grabbing instant catwalk images, Dazed Digital selected its eight favourite CSM MA graduates to shoot. Craig Green, Estefania Cortes Harker, Kenji Kawasumi, Malene List Thomsen, Timur Kim, Yifang Wan, Yong Kyun Shin and Yulia Kondranina introduce us to their collections...

"My collection is based on the film 'The Village of the Damned', which is also the book the Midwitch Cuckoos. I became obsessed with the idea of an army of religious and workwear uniforms, alongside a strong reference to light and shadows. The collection starts with very stark cream silhouettes and gradually begins to introduce engineered blocks of colour and black shadows. There are a lot of different cultural and religious references within the collection and the materials used are mainly cottons: digitally printed cotton and sea island cotton vicuna mix." Craig Green, 25, UK, Textiles

"It's an explosion of glitter. I started off with images of child beauty pageant queens and things that I thought were shiny and fun – all pink, baby blue, gold and black glitter, with naïve floral linings and shadows of dyed thick plastic. The silhouettes are body conscious but not too fitted, with big sleeves and weird graphic shaped pieces attached over the dresses. Sometimes they are actually sewn on to the dress, other times they are more like accessories that you can put on and take off." Estefania Cortes Harker, 25, Spain, Womenswear

"I was inspired by European and American wooden folk art and toys; wooden block toys, dolls, and puppets. Especially Pinocchio, the naughty puppet's foolishness and Geppetto as a craftsman. I want to make my clothes fit as if for a curved wooden doll, in pastel colours and cartoonish shapes, made from foam, dust sheets, and felts. I had been looking for some materials for curving and shaping and these DIY recycled materials made me excited somehow." Kenji Kawasumi, 26, Japan, Knitwear

"The collection is all about 'The Ring', which I have been obsessed with way too long, more than a year. The materials are rubber, chamois leather and latex – I get inspired by beautiful and crude things, this time in a rubber shop. One thing leads to another and the elements within the collection have had a change of scene. The silhouettes are broad shouldered and look like they are on a hanger. My key pieces are the dresses with a center ring in front and back, they are the breathing holes of the collection. And the waistline rings, that cut up the long silhouettes." Malene List Thomsen, 30, Denmark, Womenswear

"The starting point for my collection was the modest denim shirt. My aim? To combine sophistication with the innate pureness of denim. The bonded velvet came from an interest in Lara from 'Doctor Zhivago', and a passion for suprematism led to the use of triangles and strong asymmetric shapes. My favourites are the last three looks, where the long skirts with trails were introduced." Timur Kim, 22, Russia, Womenswear

"I was looking at 60s minimal art and I got excited about the scale, material and presence of the geometric shape. The fine wool became the final choice of the fabric, as it is the best for shaping by the pressing and sewing technique. It also helps to make the collection more elegant. The colours come from a black and white photocopy of Robert Morris’ installation work at Green Gallery New York in 1965 and I thought the whole colour mood of that photocopy with the sharp angles was very interesting." Yifang Wan, 27, China, Womenswear

"I was inspired by Jean Tinguely's 'Indeter Mindada' installation in which he made a simple, constant curve with one of his machines. The line creates a form when it revolves on an axel at high speed and I created looks by using different weights of springs with different weights of fabric such as hard woven fabric and lightweight jersey. As well as cashmere, wool, mohair and velvet. The basic sillhouettes are from the 1920s." Yong Kyun Shin, 29, South Korea, Womenswear

"I've always been interested in structure and textile as an important and distinct part of design. So, I looked to Anton Pevsner, Jurgen Mayer and American fibre artist Claire Zeisler's work. I like the idea of transforming the flat or two-dimensional into a three-dimensional shape/silhouette. I used very fine viscose fringing, which I string and weave around the body, transforming the natural body shape into a much weirder silhouette based on sportswear. I like a sense of intricacy, when you look at something and don't understand how it's made or what it's made from." Yulia Kondranina, 28, Russia, Womenswear

Photography Amy Gwatkin
Nell Kalonji
Hair Yumi Nakada-Dingle using TIGI
Make-up Nami Yoshida using MAC cosmetics
Duncan at Elite, Vanusa at FM
Photographic Assistant Liam Greetham
Styling Assistant Zsofia Farkas