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Stella McCartney Womenswear S/S12

Pyjamas, sportswear and rococo curls combined with ease, with the collection offering a womanly sensuality

It's difficult not to link Stella McCartney' role as creative designer for the British Olympics Team in 2012 with the sport details that popped up in the collection - in the use of vertex mesh, in the relaxed polo shirt shapes, knitted trackie bottoms and poolside sandals. However, the sportiness wasn't the overall pervasive theme. Instead, McCartney's getting and clicking with what women want to wear resulted in a fluidity that started off with those rococo curls snaking their way from the hems of the skirts to the neckline, sometimes as puffy versions to add weight. Her signature trouser suits became the most chic and covetable sets of pyjamas as diamond patterns borrowed from traditional men's ties were transferred in different variations onto pyjama tops, silk trousers and waistcoats that buttoned up at the hips and let it all hang elsewhere. McCartney's classic jumpsuit still got a look in and was especially effective in a tiny silk diamond pattern in navy that came with a matching stiff clutch. The whirl of mixed diamond patterns finally combined with paisley and the rococo curls to make their way on to a series of sensual dresses where the curl motif dictated the exposed parts of flesh. Sensual as they were, it was McCartney's print mixing that really pulled the whole thing together and already had women making up personal order lists.