The emerging London-based designer develops his taste for cocoon shaped sculptural dresses and art deco colour combinations
Devoting collections to a single craft seems to have become somewhat of a trend for young London designers. There’s Ashish and his sequins. Holly Fulton and her embellishment. Now making knitwear his signature and joining the likes of its connoisseurs Mark Fast and Louise Goldin, is Brazilian born, London based Lucas Nascimento. Graduating in 2008 from LCF, Nascimento has spent the last three seasons showing at Rio Fashion Week and developing a brand which views the female body as a sculptural form.
His latest offering of ‘cocoon knitted garments’ consists mainly of skirts with eye popping, art deco combinations of colour. However, he also creates futuristic looking jackets and trousers, switching to block colour, which befits the bulkier silhouettes – a stand out look in the form of an glistening blue top and matching skinny trousers.
Dazed Digital: Why did you decide to focus on knitwear?
Lucas Nascimento: My mother taught me to hand knit when I was a boy. Knitting was a craft that instantly fascinated me and after moving to London I studied knitwear before setting up my own label. I am always striving to find exciting ways of using knit; exploring interesting yarn combinations with techniques and processes to develop fabrications that are modern and fun.
DD: What was the inspiration behind your latest collection?
Lucas Nascimento: I think that knitwear generally lends itself to a more body-con silhouette and I wanted to explore the idea of how the body is viewed and use shapes which are unexpected in knit. I looked a lot at the Bauhaus movement and abstract, minimalist artists such as Mondrian and Donald Judd and also the idea of taking quotidian fabrics and re-interpreting them in knitwear - such as the reflective fabrics which are included in the detailing on some of the garments.
DD: The colours you use are quite varied, how did you go about selecting them?
Lucas Nascimento: I wanted the colours to bring an element of fun to the collection, to contrast with the geometry of the knit artworks and the rigidity of some of the garment shapes.
DD: Some of your pieces are quite futuristic, how do you see your clothing being worn by every day women?
Lucas Nascimento: I think the collection was very playful and women could easily adapt individual pieces to suit their own style and have fun with the different combinations.
DD: How do you plan to develop the brand, image wise and business wise?
Lucas Nascimento: I've just moved into a new studio which I'm really excited about. I also hope to keep pushing the boundaries of knitwear; exploring new techniques and technologies to expand and grow the label.