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Charles Anastase S/S 09

The French designer's debut show in London revisits all his signature trademarks and is given a new edge.

The Charles Anastase girl has moved from London to Paris and she has settled in nicely. For Anastase, who is based in London, moving from the Hotel Crillon in Paris to London, a weight ; 'It feels like my first show and I feel like I'm 20 again!  But it was very cool and relaxed.'

It isn't any wonder that he feels like he's debuting again as the references to his first show were not lost with the mini-crino shapes and white palette. Anastase's girl though has been given an edge, a latent sexiness that goes beyond the cute illustrated tees, a signature of Anastase and flouncy dresses and cardis.

'I wanted to show the evolution I have made from my first show and I tried to express something more sexy,' says Anastase. Quietly sexy would be an apt description as the injections of embroidered denim, a snug leather jacket, both slouchy and tight stockings that could not possibly be seen as grannyish and most noticeable the chunky super-high shoes, a collaboration with Natacha Marro; all of which only helped to 'mess' up the girly affair that Anastase is known for.