According to a new study published in the British Journal of Dermatology, the number of young people being diagnosed with acne is rising worldwide, with rates in the UK among the highest globally.

The report found that, globally, the age-standardised prevalence of acne among people aged ten to 24 increased from 8,563.4 per 100,000 people in 1990 to 9,790.5 per 100,000 in 2021. Of the 204 countries analysed, the UK ranked eighth, behind Germany, Portugal, Luxembourg, Norway, Andorra, Denmark, and San Marino.

Dr Zhou Zhu, the lead author of the research from Peking Union Medical College Hospital, explained to The Guardian: “Our research didn’t look at why this is, but it could be linked to lifestyle factors like diet, stress, obesity rates, increased exposure to pollution from urbanisation, or simply a greater likelihood of seeking treatment.” 

Although several misleading headlines have suggested that the study concluded acne is increasing among young people, this is not entirely accurate. The study found that the number of acne cases seen by doctors is on the rise. “While many people manage acne themselves using over-the-counter treatments, it is also a common reason for consulting a GP or dermatologist,” says Prof Michael Ardern-Jones, the academic vice-president of The British Association of Dermatologists.

It makes sense that more young people are seeking medical help for acne and skin-related concerns. Skincare has become one of society’s most prominent cultural fixations in recent years. From glass-like skin to dewy finishes, our obsession with having the clearest, shiniest, and brightest complexions has never been more intense. Last year, the global skincare market was valued at $109.71 billion, and it is projected to grow from $115.65 billion in 2024 to $194.05 billion by 2032.

While the study did not focus on why acne diagnoses might be increasing, beauty critics like Jessica DeFino and James Hamblin argue that excessive skincare use and climate change could be contributing factors. In his book Clean: The New Science of Skin and the Beauty of Doing Less, Hamblin went five years without showering as part of an experiment to investigate whether overuse of personal hygiene products, such as soap, might damage our skin. For Hamblin and others he interviewed, reducing product use helped clear up their skin. It also led him to view skin as “a complex, diverse ecosystem” rather than a surface that should be kept pure and pristine.

Hamblin argues that real skincare isn’t about buying the latest Glossier product or your favourite celebrity’s new hyaluronic acid serum — it’s about creating a cleaner, healthier environment. For instance, he suggests investing in public parks. In his final chapter, he claims that if we spent as much money improving and maintaining public parks as we do on skincare, our quality of life and, consequently, our skin would improve. “As we change our worlds, we change our bodies,” he writes. “The old duality between environmental health and human health is obsolete.”