Anok Yai: ‘I’m in this industry, and I’m not going to leave’

Every so often there is a moment at a fashion show that births a new generation of fashion lovers, while simultaneously reminding those already in the industry where their fascination came from in the first place. Towards the end of last year, 26-year-old model Anok Yai was at the centre of one of those moments. Closing the Mugler SS24 show in Paris, she effortlessly walked down the runway with the fabric of her dress and mask whimsically trailing along behind her.

“In the fitting, creative director Casey Cadwallader was saying the train was going to fly,” she says, reflecting on the moment. “I knew it was going to be an important look, but I didn’t think it was going to be that big,” Shortly after the show, videos of her world rapidly circulated online, with many calling it their favourite fashion moment of the year and dubbing Yai the supermodel of her generation.

No stranger to a viral moment, Yai was first discovered back in 2017 after an image of her at Howard University’s homecoming went viral on social media. Soon after, she signed with a modelling agency and made history as the first Black model to open a Prada show since Naomi Campbell in 1997. Since then, she has gone on to grace the covers of publications across the world, including the Dazed Winter 2023 issue, and walk the runways of renowned designers.

Earlier this month she added a new title to her evergrowing portfolio, becoming the new face of Mugler’s latest Alien fragrance, Hypersense. Adorned with long, purple hair and custom-made purple contact lenses, the campaign depicts Yai transformed into a Mugler alien and embodies the duality of Hypersense’s sensual yet playful allure.  

Below she speaks to us about her first fragrance campaign, mastering her famous walk, and finally becoming ready to share her personal art with the world.

How does it feel to be a Mugler girl and part of the Alien family?

Anok Yai: It’s amazing. A dream come true. I remember when I was younger, I would always watch Mugler fashion shows, and I always just wanted to be a part of that world. When I walked my first Mugler show with Casey, I realised that we had so much in common. He told me that we grew up in the same city, it was such a coincidence. We went to the same high school but he graduated a few years before me.

How was the experience of shooting the campaign? Do you have any standout memories from the day?

Anok Yai: I remember the day before it felt like it was like a Marvel movie. They created these custom contact lenses which were weighted and individually painted. They were custom fits for my eye and my irises. We also did some stunts in the ad and that was my first time doing stunts. I was really excited about it. I was jumping very, very high and then landing in my high heels and then climbing on a wall. It was really cool.

What does Alien Hypersense smell like to you?

Anok Yai: When you wear it, it is light and floral because it has Jasmine notes but at the same time, it’s really sensual and mysterious. I remember I wore it on my last date and it worked very well. You have to spray it on the neck and go on a date. 

Oh! Good to know. 

Anok Yai: Go get it girl, spray it right here on your neck and see.

Smells can trigger such nostalgia sometimes. What scents hold the strongest memories for you? 

Anok Yai: I literally had bakhoor [scented wood chips] all over my house, all the time. My mom would put it on the aluminium foil. I remember when I first came to New York I was trying so hard to find bakhoor and I did not know how to explain it in English. Nobody ever knew what I was saying. But now actually whenever my friends go to Africa, they go and pick me up a big jar.

Has your relationship with fragrance changed throughout your life? I feel like most girls grow up with those sweet and sickening scents, did you have one of those?

Anok Yai:  When I was younger I thought I was so cool, and at the Dollar Tree they had these $1 perfumes. Mine smelt like strawberry yoghurt and I always sprayed it all myself. I thought I smelled so good. But every time I would go to class everyone would be like, ‘who smells like yoghurt’? As I’ve grown up fragrance has become more of a part of who I am. I refuse to leave my house without wearing fragrance, I literally just wear it to go to sleep. It’s like putting on an outfit, you know? You act differently when you wear certain fragrances.

Who’s had the most impact on you in terms of style and how you look? 

Anok Yai: So for me, it’s more eras. I’m obsessed with the 1920s and 30s flapper era. I’m obsessed with old Hollywood, like the gowns that they would wear in the 60s and 70s. In terms of people, it’s Grace Jones and Nina Simone. But with Nina Simone it’s not the clothes that she wore, but the essence that she would exude as a woman and the way that she would walk and sing on stage. 

You are known for being one of the best runway models walking today. How did you master your walk? Was it instinctual or learnt?

Anok Yai: It was not instinctual at all. When I first started, I wanted my walk to be so specific that if you put a mask on me, you knew that when you saw my walk, it was an Anok walk. It was one of those things that I kind of had to test out every show. At the beginning of my career, I would change something about the walk every show and then once I found something that I liked, I would keep it. As time went by I found the walk and then I just kept it.

It takes a while, it’s not something where you just get on the runway and it’s there. But the way that I change my walk is definitely just an instinctual thing. You can’t walk a Prada show with a Versace walk. I change the walk depending on what I’m walking. In the last Mugler show, the one that I closed, I think that was one of my favourite moments, with the train and the dramatic fan.

You’ve talked before about learning to speak up for yourself, ask for what you want and, most importantly, say no. As your career has progressed, how do you think this has helped you? Has it got any easier?

 Anok Yai: It’s got a lot easier, still hard but easier. I remember the moment when I would speak up for myself, I had a lot of pushback and it was really scary. I felt like I had moments where I was just like, ‘oh my god, I just ruined my career’. Once I was standing up for myself and I would get pushback, I think a lot of people thought that I was just like standing down. I stood my ground and I felt that I actually got more respect for it. It’s allowed me into spaces where my opinion is valued now. It’s one of those things where you just kind of get over the fear. Sometimes you are going to have to say no or put something on the line, but it’s always going to work out.

What would you say to people who struggle to find their place in the industry and are learning to speak up for themselves?

Anok Yai: Find what makes you you and what it is about you that makes you special. It’s not something that someone can decide for you. I remember when I started a lot of people said ‘milk it, just take what you can from the industry, take the money and go’. I was like absolutely not, I’m going to be here and I’m not I’m going to leave. So I found things in myself that I knew only I had, which are my personality, my walk and the way I can work in front of a camera. I used that to amplify who I was and I used that to tell myself that I belong here.

“When I started a lot of people said ‘milk it, just take what you can from the industry, take the money and go’. I was like absolutely not, I’m going to be here and I’m not I’m going to leave” – Anok Yai

Towards the end of last year you spent time at Kehinde Wiley’s Black Rock Senegal residency – what can you tell us about that?

Anok Yai: I met Kehinde Wiley a few years ago. He’s always been one of my favourite artists, ever since I saw the portrait he did of the Obamas. When I met him, I basically pushed him into a corner and I was like, ‘I’m going to be in your artist residency’. I showed him my artwork, he said he would think about it. It was months and months of hounding him and then he basically became my art mentor. At the artist residency, it’s basically this beautiful compound and he has a team. You’re only responsible for creating art. They feed you and they have a production team there where you call them and say ‘I need inspiration’ and they’ll take you all over Senegal.

It’s an artist hub, just artists everywhere. I got a lot of inspiration from these kids who were surfing, because a lot of kids there surf very well. I have an art piece that is going to come out soon that I was working on there. I’m really excited about it and I’m just very happy to be able to have a man as talented as Kehinde be my mentor.

When did you start getting involved in art? Is it a big creative outlet for you?

Anok Yai: I’ve always been interested in art, but you know how immigrant parents are, they just want you to do science and maths, or be a lawyer or doctor. I remember when I was younger, I would sneak into my dad’s computer room and Google images of flowers. I would be up until 2 am just drawing flowers. My mom be like, ‘what are you doing?’ and I’d say I was doing homework. At the time my parents were just focused on school and education, drilling math and science into my head. I got back into art once I started fashion because I’m surrounded by art all the time. Now I just want to get to the point where my art career is as strong as my fashion career

What is your biggest beauty tip?

Anok Yai: My Black friends like to come at me for this, but wearing sunscreen on your face. All my friends can drag me every time I say this, but I swear it works. I wear sunscreen and I exfoliate.

What is your current obsession?

Anok Yai: Succession.

What are you manifesting at the moment?

Anok Yai: Health and wealth.

What are you most excited about right now and coming up in the future?

Anok Yai: I’m just really excited about this release because it’s my first fragrance. I’m excited to see everyone’s reaction to the ad and the essence of the fragrance is really exciting. But girl, don’t forget my advice spray on your neck and go on a date.

Mugler Alien Hypersense is available now. Head here to find out more