I landed in the Austrian Alps unable to ski and in borrowed salopettes, but when the driver arrived to collect me, I quickly realised that didn’t matter. Why? Because I was on my way to the Elizabeth Arthotel. 

Whisked through frozen lakes and little villages, I arrived at a community etched in heritage. Nestled at the foot of the slopes, the adults-only hotel has anchored Ischgl since 1976, although the Aloys family had already been shaping the valley for over a decade. Erwin Aloys built the valley’s first cable car in 1963, while his brother Günther Aloys positioned the resort worldwide and named it after his wife (of course).

Today, the hotel is run by Günther’s daughter, Mirjam Aloys, and her husband Markus. They live on the seventh floor. Family and hotel life remain intertwined. This year, they are celebrating the hotel’s fiftieth anniversary in style with a season-long art programme exploring alpine culture, family legacy and creativity in Ischgl.

Inside, the hotel has moved beyond the traditional ski lodge aesthetic to be more like a curated gallery with panoramic mountain views. The walls are adorned with over 130 works, featuring artists such as Christian Eisenberger and Evy McKenzie. With just 39 rooms and suites, the Elizabeth Arthotel prioritises intimacy and a sense of calm. Clean lines and rich wood tones echo the surrounding alpine landscape. Mirjam floats around the hotel, attending to her guests, while the staff deliver warm, intuitive service.

The location is equally compelling. Ischgl sits in the Paznaun Valley and its mountains cut clean against the sky. At breakfast, I watched the early-bird skiers hop onto the lift beside the hotel. Between fresh fruit and pastries, I read that thanks to the valley’s altitude, snow blankets the valley almost every year. The hotel’s in-house ski service takes care of equipment, passes, and logistics. With the sun out and powder thick, I was ready to head up the mountain.

My instructor, Christos, led me across the alpine terrain in snowshoeing boots. Our three-hour hike cut through forests and untouched snow. He gamely took photos, carried my layers as I moved between hot and cold, and fielded my never-ending questions. He pointed out animal tracks and told me about rabbits that turn white in winter. After we bumped into his brother giving snowboarding lessons, it came as no surprise that his father was also an instructor. Safe to say, I was charmed.

Back in the hotel, I wandered through the art-lined hallways to the spa, where floor to ceiling windows frame the skiers carving their final runs home. I watched them trace patterns in the snow as a masseuse pressed warm stones into my back. Later, from the infinity pool, I watched again as the setting sun painted the peaks in pastel pinks and oranges. 

After a steam, I retreated downstairs. Each room has been delicately designed with large windows and natural materials. A private balcony overlooked the ski slopes. The bathroom was luxurious and spa-like. I napped in the huge, pillowy bed, feeling completely relaxed. As the last of the village’s Christmas lights started to twinkle, we headed to the hotel’s dazzling restaurant Eliza, for a five-course dinner envisioned by chef Thomas Zechner. The sculptures adorned not just the walls, but the plates too. Beautifully designed maquettes of seared scallops and shaved truffles. Dumplings, veal, monkfish, each paired with fine wines drawn from the hotel’s expansive cellar. A plump plum doughnut, the perfect finale.

The next day, the Aloys family gathered their nearest and dearest for the 50th anniversary celebration. It felt like a wedding, albeit a very chic one. Children, grandparents, nieces, and nephews filled the room. Among all the decadent courses and toasts (in German), the emotion needed no translation. I was moved by the laughter and tears of a family history etched in ice glistening before us.  

Champagne in hand, one of the spritely nephews, Marvin, led us through the Art of Legacy, a special exhibition tracing the hotel’s history with archival photographs. It was here that we learned the legend of Günther Aloys. In the 1970’s, he created the first rooftop pool in the Alps, much to the government's disapproval. He erected an ice tower in front of the hotel (also unauthorised) and one Christmas season, wrapped the entire building in a giant red bow. Marvin laughed us through his grandfather’s stories, pointing out shifts in Alpine fashion and the hotel’s dramatic campaigns. 

The family-run hotel continues to honour this legacy as a living, contemporary creative space. As Mirjam Aloys explains, “My parents created something ahead of its time, rooted in family, place and culture. The Art of Legacy is a way of honouring that history while allowing it to evolve. Marking our fiftieth anniversary with the new commission is exciting - celebrating the women who shaped this place and reflecting our belief in art as a lasting presence - the spirit of creativity and vision that connects the past, present and future.”

For the evening’s final moment, a sculpture by the female Austrian artist duo NONOS was unveiled on the rooftop, honouring the hotel’s female legacy. Backdropped by ski slopes illuminated with a glowing ‘50’, the work, titled Sissy, pays homage to Elisabeth Aloys, whose vision transformed Ischgl from a mountain village into a destination for art and luxury. Surprised by the unveiling, Elisabeth was visibly moved as she stood watching, surrounded by her family. The final family link revealed itself quietly. The artists, too, are sisters.