“Understated luxury” is the term Alberto Incanuti uses to describe his knitwear collections for new Italian label Aimo Richly. The designer, who has already made a name for himself with the soft, distressed knits he previously designed under his own name, continues to explore his favourite themes within this collaboration. Thus, the new collection unfolds as a series of deconstructed pieces made of alpaca, angora, mohair and ultra-fine merino. Oversized shapes such as thick wool coats feature alongside kimonos and fitted jumpers, while the concept of a mirror – Incanuti’s big inspiration for next season – echoes in a button-up jumper that looks as if it’s being worn upside-down. Extensive research into new yarns was carried out by Aliz Opere Tessili, resulting in an innovative yet highly desirable range that’s bound to make waves in stores come Autumn.

Dazed Digital: How do you think you the Aimo Richly collections differ from the ones you previously designed under your own name?
Alberto Incanuti: Aimo Richly is quite different from my past collections. My creativity for the signature line came from a deep and extensive research on new treatment on materials, which needed to be worn out and bruised. As Aimo Richly is a luxury and high-end line, the vintage and worn out look of the tricot pieces comes from a reserch carried out from my previous experiences and experimentation on Alberto Incanuti line. Still, the luxurious materials are treated very delicately here.

DD: Can you tell us more about your inspiration for A/W11?
Alberto Incanuti: It’s all about a vision of a "new normal" style and "understated luxury" - a different interpretation of the so-called classic style. It uses high end materials and exaggerated volumes - from the very big to the very small. The collection’s strong features are based upon a mirrored shape, which is why some of the sweaters are worn upside down. The inspiration also comes from contemporary design, art and music - all part of the everyday references for my own designs.

DD: What sets off your design process - fabric manipulation or drawings?
Alberto Incanuti: It’s a mix of the two: shapes and treatments on yarns and weaving are always tested together at Aliz Opere Tessili in Italy. It’s the production facility that I use for all my pieces. The technology-based part of my job is always crucial for the kind of items I create for Aimo Richly. 

DD: What kind of feeling did you want to convey with the new collection?
Alberto Incanuti: The feeling is always about understated luxury and a new sense of normal, a new and now sense of normal.

DD: What do you think are the key items of the Autumn/Winter collection?
Alberto Incanuti: The upside down sweaters, where I apply my vision of newness and modernity, like in a mirrored image.