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Miu Miu A/W11

A quiet but powerful 40s turn from Miuccia Prada concludes Paris Fashion Week

Miuccia Prada sung a softer note for A/W in contrast to last season’s exploration of five minute fame in high-impact neon. It wasn’t clear which whether we were looking at 40s silhouettes by way of early 90s when Joan Crawford-esque shoulders were de rigeur for female power dressing. In muted shades of cinnamon, taupe, grey we had demure dresses split at the thigh but fully covered along with a twisted take on a waist peplum that had a sort of deconstructed bow flaring out at the hips. This motif was also used again at the shoulders. It continued to veer between the two decades as drop waisted long-sleeved collared dresses were adorned with sequined birds and flowers that could have been on a 40s tea dress.

Another twist was given to the familiar fur stoles seen on 40s starlets, which were wrapped around the waist. We’ve come to see an unexpected mix and when sideway baseball caps came with sported elasticated short sleeved sweaters, it was another curveball that will only endear more people to Miuccia’s non-linear way of articulating ideas. Still interpretations of the 1940s' is what we’ll stick to with this decidedly muted collection that doesn’t come with a whole lot of theory behind it – just pieces that people can comprehend such as the jacket and coats complete with this season’s round-shouldered shapes. The collection was also quietly beautiful especially at the point when delicately embellished dandelions fell over a dress or when a dress draped at the back with beaded floral embellishments.

Miu Miu still knew how to play a tune to its fans though with the sparkly shoes and ankle boot, something that Miu Miu has perfected so often over the seasons as well as the enlarged purses that the models clutched to their sides, as seen at Prada this season.