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Adam Kimmel Menswear A/W11

Inspired by the Pacific North West and ideals of Lynch's iconic Twin Peaks, lumberjack chic and a distant biker theme pervaded the collection

With a proven knack for coming up with imaginative themes, presentations and films, Adam Kimmel had a lot to live up to as he presented his A/W11 collection on Thursday evening. To everyone's relief, this was one of the strongest collections to date from the laid back New Yorker. It might not have been as crazy concept as the previous Snoop and cowboy collections, but this one had something else; a focused and coherent aesthetic that took the wilderness clothes of north west America to the urban streets of Paris, obviously with an improvement in fabrics, cuts and shapes.

Except for the lumberjack feeling there was a distinct biker atmosphere in the glass cage where models walked in and out for an hour, drinking beer and wielding shot guns. Biker jackets, light blue denim and boots was accessorised by an abandoned motorcycle in a corner of the stage. Contrasting the luxe redneck look, if such an image exists, was a more refined approach to men's tailoring; double breasted jackets, ties, shirt bolos, coats with cord collars and printed scarves impressed. But to keep it interesting there was also a bright orange coat, cowboy hats and a play suit. All in a day of Adam Kimmel's wonderful world...

Dazed Digital: Both the Carhartt collection and your own line uses biker imagery for the photos and film, how would you describe the divide?
Adam Kimmel:
The Carhartt one is Easy Rider while my own collection is backward motorcycle punk!

DD: I was struck by the contrast of the more sleek and tailored side of the collection and the quite lumber jack style of the rest...
Adam Kimmel:
It's impossible to go to the Pacific North West without coming across a wood steam but I really wanted to stay away from the backpacker aspect so the wood steam you see is more of an axe carrier...

DD: So you went to the US west coast for inspiration...
Adam Kimmel:
No, the Pacific North West, it's Portland. I went there with preconceived ideas of Twin Peaks and River's edge and then I met Dan Attoe and he's the real surreal motherfucker. Why? Meet his friends, see how he dresses, how and where he lives, the bar he goes to - it's wild! He's the most well-known NYC artist from that region.

DD: So what in the collection did you two work on together?
Adam Kimmel:
Dan did the scarves, T-shirts and one of the sweaters.

DD: Do you have a favourite piece on the collection?
Adam Kimmel:
I love the fit of the suit jackets; soft shoulders, a little slimmer this season. The motorcycle jacket and the leather jacket that has a detachable jean vest on top. And there's a bomber jacket that turns into a biker jacket by reversing it...

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