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Proenza Schouler S/S11

The designer duo combined tie-dye effects and bright lace accompanied by more minimal pieces

Late on Wednesday evening, design duo Proenza Schouler whipped up a storm with their S/S11 collection. The main ingredients in said storm was a beautiful onslaught of structured fabrics. Tweed, lace, silk, and other especially created materials paraded down the catwalk. The fabrics were at their best in A-line dresses and cropped and collarless jackets. Starting out light and bright, the collection then moved into more colourful grounds with abstract oil painting prints, tops featuring a tie-dye effect and intricate lace dresses in yellow, red and midnight blue. A few models sported chunky metal necklaces, whereas others went for a more minimal look through flared trousers and tucked in blouses. Both styles worked perfectly well, thanks to the much thought-through choice of fabrics.

Dazed Digital: What was your starting point for the collection?

Proenza Schouler: It was the notion of femininity, whatever that means. We worked with fabrics such as lace and tweed that are considered refined and then we twisted them.

DD: Any other sources of inspiration?

Proenza Schouler: Random things like art blogs, surfer images and pictures of old ladies.

DD: What was that bubbly fabric you used for a few skirts and dresses?

Proenza Shouler: It’s called chebor and it’s an ancient Japanese technique. It’s usually used on heavier fabrics like kimonos. We used it on chiffons where we knotted the fabric, died it and unpicked it. It created that bouncy effect.

DD: The last few colourful dresses seemed to be made out of lace…

Proenza Schouler: They were embroidered and dipped in acid, and when it dissolved you’re left with this fabric that looks like lace.

DD: What pieces stood out for you in the collection?

Proenza Schouler: The last few very colourful ones, I like them a lot.