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Photos by Morgan White

NOKI x Lovebox

JJ Hudson took over the main stage at the London festival to showcase his latest collection, and talked to Dazed about new store 123 off Brick Lane

Showing a collage of his current collection, combined with artisan pieces created by various artists and designers, NOKI presented the first ever catwalk show on the main stage of a festival at Lovebox on Sunday. The sustainability minded designer and artist has been producing one offs and 'street couture' pieces for over a decade, and fittingly the show opened with a montage of archive film tracing the last eight years of NOKI's history shown on the monumental stage screens. Using vintage garments and dead stock to create breath-taking pieces imbued with attitude, the inner city festival presentation was the perfect situation to platform the NOKI ideology. Along with last nights opening of the new 123 Store in London's Brick Lane, which showcases the NOKI label with other designers over three floors, the coming year looks like its going to be the one that see's the labels sustainably created one off's get the attention they deserve.

Dazed Digital: How did the Lovebox show come about?
NOKI: I was asked if I was interested in doing a  NOKI show at the festival by the promoter James Bailey, and I really liked the idea and what was possible in that context. I was inspired by it being the first ever show of its kind on a main stage at a festival. We curated the current collection to make it a high fashion statement, presenting 20 girls and 24 looks. We pulled together a lot of great people to work on the show, amazing stylist Kim Howells, Gloved Up on the gloves and shoes, Piers Atkinson did the millinery creating a basic shape from recycled New Era samples that I then customised further, Craig Lawrence on knitwear and Dr Hook working with us on the crochet neck braces.

DD: How did you feel it went?
NOKI: It was fantastic, I always wanted to be a rock star! We were three sets away from Grace Jones, what more do you want? It looked great and was nice to pull so many people together under the NOKI umbrella. I am really all about collaboration and the NOKI House of Sustainability umbrella embraces arts, crafts and creativity. The show ended up looking really Amazonian for one reason or another and kind of Mayan, it definitely had something of the Apocalypto about it. A hip hop Apocalypto.

DD: How are you approaching the newly opened shop?
NOKI: The floor has been minimally styled so that we can keep moving things around, and changing the landscape in there. It is new for me to be connecting with the retail world in this way but I like it. It gives the idea of the sustainable and the one off a new angle, and a new way of being consumed. I'm entering a commercial era, but in a way that works for NOKI. It feels like 13 years of being in the wilderness and now we're entering the retail landscape.